1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Major System Test — Air Conditioners

One of the problems I had when I launched the boat in June of 2023 was a very slight leak from the original Chris Craft genset strainer/seacock I attempted to reuse. I decided to upgrade to a modern seacock, Forespar marelon (reinforced plastic), and Vetus strainer. When we transited from Deale, MD to our current home port, I kept the Forespar seacock closed but had a hose connected directly from the valve hose barb to the pump inlet just in case the valve, which is well below the waterline, was accidentally opened. Once at our home port, installing the Vetus strainer was the last step in commissioning the air conditioners.

The OEM Chris Craft strainer hose barb was just above the valve

I didn’t realize it at the time, but the  top of the Chris Craft strainer was well below the waterline. So, if I had to remove the top to clean the screen, even if I closed the valve, water in the hose, pump, manifold, and supply hoses would overflow the strainer when I removed the top. I’ll try a different approach with the new Vetus strainer.

Reconfiguring the pump inlet orientation for the Vetus strainer

I marked off the waterline on the 1″ round tube salon floor support

I welded a mounting plate to the floor support tube at the waterline

The waterline will be halfway up the Vetus strainer

With the system shut off, raw water will naturally settle to the waterline. I’ll be able to remove the cap and clean the strainer without water overflowing into the bilge.

That 90° bend in the short inlet hose puts more strain on the seacock than I like

So I replaced the straight Marelon hose barb at the valve with a 90° one.

I’ve had very good results using caulk to seal Marelon seacock threads

Seacocks use straight pipe threads, not self-sealing tapered ones

So thread sealant is absolutely necessary

Nice!

Zero stress connections

I was all giddy when I opened the seacock. Raw water came up to the waterline on the strainer, then filled the hose to the pump, just as I’d hoped. This was in mid-July, 2023, and it was 90° in the salon. The thermostats were set to 78°F. One by one, I slid the thermostat switches from OFF to COOL.

The raw water pump came on! Cold air started blowing from each of the AC units! Within 20 minutes, the V-berth AC unit shut off, having reached the set temp! The aft stateroom shut off after 20 minutes, and the salon hit 78° after 30 minutes! The AC unit and raw water pump shut off!

Success!!!

I should also mention that having the raw water exit below the waterline via the OEM toilet outlet standpipes makes it very quiet.

So that’s a major system that’s pretty much done. Booyah.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Aft Deck Window Moldings

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: DIY Marine AC Raw Water Pump Controller

I’ve got three Flagship Marine air conditioners on the boat–16k in the salon, 12k in the aft stateroom, and 9k in the V-berth–and one March mag-drive pump (model BC-4C-MD) that needs to push raw water to all of them should any one of them call for it. Marine AC pump control boxes start at $300, but I thought I might be able to DIY something as good or better for far less.

My Flagship AC units have 24VAC terminals that call for the raw water pump to turn on. So I just needed three 24v relays that can handle the load from the March pump.

I bought three Omron G7L-2A-TUB-J-CB-AC24 general purpose relays for $20 each on ebay

The relays take that 24v signal and will pass 120v to the pump. They’re rated for 25 amps, so they’re overkill for this application. That’s not a bad thing.

I’ll mount the relays in a generic water-resistant electronic project box ($12 on ebay)

A little tight, but this will work fine

I used a Sharpie to mark where the holes for mounting screws need to be

Back at the garage, I drilled the screw holes and holes for the cables to pass through

Stainless screws threaded into the holes from behind

Stainless nuts and washers attach the components to the project box

Next, I installed the cable connectors in the holes I drilled in the project box

I installed the pump control box up and out of the way near the pump

Line voltage for the pump courtesy of the big salon AC unit

Neutral and ground pass through the terminal strip to the pump. 120v line voltage is routed to the “IN” side of each of the relays.

“OUT” side of each relay is daisy-chained to the LINE terminal for the pump

If any relay energizes (or all of them) the pump will see the same 120v and start pumping.

Aft stateroom 24vac pump call line

Ditto for the salon…

…and the V-berth

Done

And that’s a wrap for the pump controller. Total cost was around $100, and there are no proprietary boards or components.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Major System Test — Air Conditioners

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the V-Berth AC Unit

With the salon settee mostly finished and the aft stateroom AC installed, next I tackled the V-berth AC installation. Since all three systems rely on the same raw water pump, I can’t use any of them until all three are ready to work.

All of the wiring, hoses, and main duct are routed and ready to connect

After installing the AC unit, I started cutting outlet holes

One AC outlet will be near the V-berth door to help chill the galley.

Sharpie marks the spot

Tape off the urethane clear coat and drill holes in the corners

I was very nervous about scratching the clear coat

Mission accomplished (with no clear coat damage)

I made a foam gasket for the duct transition box

Screwed in place from below

Ducting came next

I finished the other ducting for the V-berth back in 2018…mostly.

Mechanical, plumbing, and electrical connections are done in here

That is a fine looking air conditioner enclosure

The fiberglass filter material is ugly, but I need it until the refit is done

2″ PVC duct needs to be routed to the head

The plywood wall to the right is the forward wall in the head.

Next I cut a duct hole in the V-berth head

Next, I enlarged the hole to the size of the outlet frame

I sealed the exposed plywood all the way around with epoxy.

Duct outlet fits perfectly!

Duct connection to the transition box

The plywood with the first round hole and caulk seals the duct to the transition box

That’ll do

Buffalo Batt insulation wrapped in plastic finishes off the V-berth AC install

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: DIY Marine AC Raw Water Pump Controller

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Wrapping Up the Aft Stateroom AC Installation

With the salon settee done for now, and with it the salon air conditioner is ready for commissioning, I next tackled the AC units in the aft cabin and V-berth. All of the AC units get raw water from one pump, so I want all of them to be fully hooked up before turning them on.

Waaaaay back in 2018, I installed the ducting for the aft stateroom HVAC system. Then life got complicated, and I wasn’t able to install the AC unit itself until the winter of 2022. The last step before this AC unit is ready to be tested involves building the enclosure cabinetry, installing the air filter, and plumbing the raw water outlet.

The AC unit is mostly installed…just need to finish the last details

I used 1/4″ mahogany plywood for the enclosure face

And 1/2″ plywood for the top of the enclosure

I next marked off the air filter frame opening

This mahogany fiddle molding will hide the plywood edge

Since it’s inevitable that horizonal surfaces end up being used as shelves, the fiddle will also keep things from falling off of the enclosure top.

That’s about what I had in mind

The lower panel is 1/2″ plywood

Looking good!

The fiddle molding on top looks great, but I need a molding to cover the joint between the two lower pieces of plywood.

A scrap of OEM solid mahogany will do the trick

The ugly gray primer will get sanded off after I cut the molding

That’s much better

Looking good!

After sanding the panels and moldings, it’s time for ICA clear coat

I rolled on three heavy coats, one after the other

Next day, I cut the filter frame hole

OOPS!

Turns out the filter frame isn’t square, and I oriented it so the filter slats are sideways rather than sloping down! Still, the panel and fiddle turned out very nice.

I repurposed the original toilet outlet as a raw water outlet

The washing machine, jet bath/shower, and AC raw water will all exit underwater

Thru-hulls above the waterline always end up with unsightly stains from whatever water flows out of them. By reusing the original toilet thru-hulls, which are welded to the bottom, this boat won’t have any hull stains.

I’ll hide that plumbing behind some mahogany plywood

That 6″ insulated duct takes up a lot of space

Another complication is that the hull narrows as it gets closer to the transom, so the duct moves inboard from the right closet wall to the left.

Lotsa goofy angles going on here, but it’ll all work out in the end

I cut a hatch for easy access to the thru-hull valve and hoses

Next I wetted out the back of each panel with epoxy and insulated it with 1″ thick Buffalo Batt fabric

With the panels insulated, next I applied ICA base clear

Nice!

Thermostat’s installed and the woodwork is 90% done

I’m covering all of the AC inlets with auxiliary filter material until the refit is done

The Flagship Marine HVAC filters are intended for use on a normal boat, not a dusty floating cabinet shop. So I tape this fiberglass filter material over the HVAC filters to help ensure the units don’t get loaded up with wood and sanding dust.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the V-Berth AC Unit

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Finishing the Salon Settee Structure

When I last posted, the salon settee base structure panels and corner pieces were cut and dry fitted, the 16k Flagship Marine AC unit was installed under the settee, and I’d rebuilt the settee drawer. All I needed to do for now is mix some epoxy and glue it all together.

Dry fit complete; ready for final assembly

I wetted out all joints with US Composites 635 epoxy

Next I added wood flour to the epoxy

When the epoxy has the consistency of creamy peanut butter, it makes a very strong bonding agent. I applied that to the joint surfaces, then put the pieces together, using a squeegee and alcohol on a rag to clean up any glue that squeezed out.

The back panel and corner piece are glued up

Next I installed the AC duct inlet face

That’s a nice joint

Next I glued up the second corner piece and drawer panel

Piece-by-piece, I glued the settee structure together

The final panel is glued in place

With the settee base assembled, I next went to work on the structure for the back of the sofa.

Reusing old mahogany

I reused one of the solid mahogany steps that originally went to the V-berth to make an angled end panel.

That cleaned up real nice

Fitting the top piece to the curved salon wall panel

Dry fit is coming along nicely

Next I wetted out the Tricel panel edge with epoxy

I had a stash of 3/4″ panel cap moldings that I made years ago

The varnished mahogany cap moldings look a lot better than the Tricel  honeycomb core!

I glued the panel cap moldings all around

Next, I dry-fit the second solid mahogany top piece

With all of the pieces cut, I stained everything and coated with ICA base coat clear

Next day, the ICA was cured and ready for sanding and a second coat

The joints got wetted out with epoxy, then I applied thickened epoxy

That turned out nice

It was tricky making this joint pretty

Clamps and sticks held everything together until the epoxy cured

Next day…that’s a good looking molding

With the wood work done, I installed the thermostat and AC ducting

I also installed electrical outlets in the base panels

Final step: cover everything with cardboard

That’s as far as I’m going to go with the settee for now. The only thing left is cutting the base panels for the cushions. But since the salon is my cabinet-making shop, for now I’ll hold off on that until I’m done with all of the other joinery.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Wrapping Up the Aft Stateroom AC Installation

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee V

These boats originally came with two drawers built into the settee: one long one facing into the galley, and another under the sofa cushion facing the aft salon wall. I’m using the space where the long drawer would have been as the salon HVAC inlet duct. But storage is always at a premium on a boat, so I’m refreshing the other drawer as part of this settee rebuild.

The drawer has potential

The varnish is more than 50 years old. The glue failed on the edge moldings, which were also held in place with staples that split two of the moldings. And somebody spilled blue paint inside the drawer. But the mahogany face and sides are in pretty good shape.

This crack in the face can be epoxied back together

The settee panels and corners dry fitted together

This is where the drawer will go

Tracing the drawer outline on the settee panel

Fitting the panel and plywood supports for the drawer slides

This is going to work!

Time to remove that varnish.

The mahogany drawer face cleaned up very nicely

I like how Chris Craft made drawer pulls by cutting angled, roughly oval holes in the wood. The holes double as additional ventilation, too.

Router and multi-tool cut slots for the drawer slides

Chris Craft didn’t use drawer slides on this boat. Instead, they tacked thin plastic pads on the panel edge under each side of the drawer for the wooden drawer sides to slide over. There was also a plastic guide at the back that ran on a plain steel track along the center under the drawer to keep it in position.

Modern, full-extension, soft-close slides are a big improvement

The drawer works!

Next, I had to finish making it pretty.

Cutting new edge moldings for the drawer face

I made up a bunch of panel edge moldings when I was working on the “Throne Room” (v-berth head) moldings, so all I had to do was trim these for the depth of the drawer face.

The mahogany sides of the drawer cleaned up pretty good

I started with 80 grit Mirka Abranet, then went to 120, and finished with 220.

But the Doug fir drawer bottom wasn’t going to come clean

That blue paint went deep into the plywood grain. So I decided I’ll just make it smooth and cover it. Because the salon is still my woodshop, I’ll be using this drawer as a storage area for a while. When the refit is closer to done, I’ll put mahogany veneer over the bottom.

Next, I applied fine-line tape around the perimeter of the drawer face

The tape will protect the bare wood from stain and varnish I’ll apply next

I’ll use epoxy on the bare wood to attach the moldings

Next, I applied the same Pettit 1095 filler stain used in the rest of the salon

The next day, I applied ICA base coat clear inside and out

Next day, I sanded with 220 grit Mirka and applied a second coat

That’s a good looking drawer

It’ll look even better when the mahogany veneer is installed…someday

Next, I miter-cut and fitted the new moldings

Then I used epoxy to bond the moldings to the face

Nice!

The salon settee drawer is done!

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Finishing the Salon Settee Structure

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee IV

This salon settee is a big piece of furniture. I’ve never made furniture before…well unless you count the V-berth as furniture. This settee also has built-in HVAC ducting, so it’s a pretty complex structure for a weekend warrior like me. But it’s turning out pretty nicely, and I already cut the major panels. I just need solid mahogany pieces at the corners to tie the major panels together.

Time to turn a pretty piece of mahogany into settee corner pieces

The block on top of the board in the above picture is a leftover corner piece from when I assembled the aft stateroom walls. It’s a pattern, basically. But because I don’t have any more 8/4 boards that are long enough to make the corner pieces I need for the settee, I’m using 4/4 boards that I’ll epoxy together.

45° angle cuts on either side total 90° for the corner pieces

This post covers things I did last fall. It was extremely challenging doing woodwork on the boat toward the end of its tenure on the hard in Deale, MD. In preparation for breaking down Tent Model XXX, I moved my table saw and ShopSmith back to my house in the fall of 2022. So any time I needed to machine some lumber, I had to make the measurements in Deale, then drive home (one hour each way) and cut the lumber. A minor error (remember, nothing on a boat is square) that could easily be corrected with the woodshop tools on-site turned into a multi-day slog. Fortunately, the salon settee corner pieces didn’t cause me much grief.

That’s what I had in mind

It’s hard to tell in the picture, but that’s two 4/4 sticks with a 45° cut on either side of both. Put the narrow ends together, and you get two 90° faux-rabbets with 90° between them, same as the corner pieces I made years ago from 8/4 stock.

The grain is gorgeous

Two corner sticks bonded with US Composites 635 epoxy thickened with wood flour

I found a crack at the end of one stick

After thoroughly wetting out the crack with straight epoxy, I used a squeegee to force wood flour-thickened epoxy into the crack. Then I got fancy with some clamps to hold it all together.

Crack? What crack???

Next day, test fit looks good!

Semi-final dry fitting looks good

I marked off the corner pieces for rounding to match each panel

Then back to the house to round the corners on my jointer

Looking good!

Back to the boat for final shaping with a sander

Nice!

Back in the salon

Perfect!

I had some panel cap pieces I made earlier in the refit

The cap pieces are basically C-channel shaped solid mahogany, with a 3/4 gap between the two legs. All I had to do was widen the gap a bit to accommodate the veneers on either side. They look a lot better than the inside of the Tricel panels.

This is turning out very nicely

Almost done with dry fitting

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee V

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee III

I mentioned a few posts back that the reason the salon settee was a priority is because the intake duct for the salon HVAC unit will be integral to the settee. It’s summer time in the Mid-Atlantic region, so AC would be very nice to have. But the settee is pretty much the centerpiece of the salon, so this sofa-bed/air conditioning duct and housing also has to be pretty.

I made two more settee base panels out of Tricel

With the two lower panels and the end panel on the right set in place, you can see the shape of the settee pretty clearly.

Fitting mahogany cleats and framing for the AC duct top

The duct inlet and filter will be low in the right-side settee end panel. Air will cross right to left. The evaporator is on the outboard side of the salon HVAC unit, so the incoming air will waft over the unit, drawing away heat before being cooled in the evaporator.

Reusing old mahogany plywood for the salon AC duct

This is the 3/4″ mahogany plywood that made up the back panel of the original settee, on the back side of which was the big white box that was a closet and forward head (bathroom). After hitting the panel with 80 grit on my Makita sander to remove the white paint, the mahogany plywood was in surprisingly good shape.

Not perfect but good enough for an AC inlet duct

Next, I cut the panel to size with my track saw

I like it!

I want to have room to service the Flagship Marine AC unit. So I next made a removable lid section for the duct.

Reusing more leftover original marine plywood

For the duct lid, I don’t need 3/4″ plywood since there’s no chance of anybody ever standing on it. I had a usable-size remnant of 1/2″ Douglas fir marine plywood that I kept while we were dismantling the boat when the refit started back in 2008.

It was just big enough to make the lid

I made the final cuts with my Makita jigsaw

Mahogany cleats all around make a solid base for the lid

Since this will be an intake duct for filtered air, there can’t be any air gaps. Unfiltered air leaks could eventually lead to the evaporator being clogged with dust.

Nice!

The duct

The lid comes off by removing ten screws

I modified the duct for even better maintenance access

Looks good

The AC unit fan outlet needs spacers to meet the duct lid

I used scraps from 1/2″ and 1/8″ expanded PVC panels to make the spacers

Perfect fit!

With the AC duct all dry fitted, the next step was to take it all apart, glue, screw, and coat all the parts before final installation.

Glued, screwed, and epoxy coated

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee IV

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Dialing in the CAPAC Anti-Corrosion System

When I recommissioned the CAPAC impressed current anti-corrosion system, I hoped that the controller survived the decades the boat spent on Purgatory Row in a southern Maryland boatyard. The circuit board was dusty from the refit, but none of the components showed signs of having let the smoke out. So having safely made the transit from Deale to my new home port marina, I was anxious to power up the CAPAC and see how it performs.

Initial CAPAC power up shows 5.5 on the meter

According to the meter and Engelhard Model 10A12D CAPAC manual, 5 is “unprotected” for aluminum and 7 to 7.5 is “protected.” So 5.5 is only slightly protected. I turned the set-point adjustment potentiometer (on the left under the meter) fully clockwise, which should be the maximum. But the needle didn’t budge.

The manual does say that it can take up to six weeks for the impressed current protective film to fully develop, so I made sure to keep an eye on that meter whenever I visited the boat.

Next day, the needle was just over 6!

Two days later, the needle was at 7!

My aluminum hull is “protected”!

Three days later, something changed

I checked all of the electrical connections and found nothing wrong. But then I noticed that a thunderstorm had moved the boat around enough that one of my shore power cords had dipped into the water.

Could a new shore power cord lose electrons in the brackish water?

I adjusted the cord so it won’t end up in the water again, but the CAPAC meter is all over the place. It’s dropped as low as 5 and risen all the way up to 7.5. But the set-point rheostat has very little effect on the needle.

I dug into the CAPAC manual, and it says that for this condition, test the anode and reference cell by putting a jumper between pin 2 and 3, which puts +12vdc to the anode.

Major component wiring diagram

Jumper from 2-3

CAPAC meter pegs at the top of the scale, as it should

The manual says if it passes this test, there’s a defect in the controller.

The schematic isn’t terribly complex

I’m no electronics expert, but at least I can see the individual circuit lines and see what each component is. So I decided to identify each component and look for trouble spots.

Everything looks fine…except for one thing

My blog host always resizes photos. Right-click the image and save if you want to see it full-size on a computer screen.

This 2 watt resister shows signs of letting some smoke out

That’s R13 in the schematic. The “Theory of Operation” section of the manual (pp. 23-24) says anode current flows through that resistor and on through two transistors before going to the anode. But I don’t know how to read the schematic. There’s -12v on one side of the resistor and 13.37v on the side with the transistors. I used jumpers to attach another known-good 2w 220 ohm resister across R13’s terminals, bypassing R13 if it’s internally lost continuity, but nothing changed.

The circuits around the scorched resistor look fine

So next I took voltage readings at every spot I could easily access, noting the results on the schematic.

But what does it all mean?

After removing the jumper from 2-3, the meter slowly dropped to 6.5

So…my CAPAC meter tells me the anode, reference cell, and meter are working properly. Turning the set-point adjustment potentiometer has no apparent effect on operation, near as I can tell. And none of the components appear visually to have failed, though R13 does show it’s gotten warm.

If anybody has any ideas, please let me know in the comments!

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee III

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Remaking the Salon Settee II

The missus and I took the boat out for a quick blast up the Potomac on Saturday. What a hoot! The Cummins engines continue to light off immediately. Temps and pressures are stable. The bilge pump counter still shows zero three weeks after turning on twice during our seven hour journey from Deale, MD, to our marina on the Potomac. Adjusting the propeller shaft packing glands dried up the bilge completely. So that’s all good.

But I have no air conditioning, in part, because the air intake duct for the salon AC unit will be built-in to the salon sofa bed/settee. So recreating the settee is a bit of a priority.

But first, I just want to say how nice it is not to be in the tent

Even without AC, just throw open the hatches and windows and a cool breeze comes through

But back to the refit.

The big white box behind the settee was a closet and bathroom

Since the forward bathroom is  now in the V-berth, and I prefer mahogany to white paint, my approach with the settee will depart somewhat from Chris Craft’s white painted box.

I saved the original settee forward panel to use as a pattern

The original settee lower panel makes another good pattern

You can see the lines on the floor where the original panels attached to solid mahogany cleats. These are all very helpful in reminding me how this thing was assembled back in 1969.

Chris Craft used 3/4″ mahogany plywood for the settee, but I’ve got some leftover Tricel

Tricel panel scraps can easily be joined together using solid mahogany splines and epoxy to make a bigger panel.

I use tape to indicate depth-of-cut for my Harbor Freight oscillating multi-tool

I generally use one inch splines to join Tricel, which means I have to remove 1/2″ of the core material from each panel where they’ll join together.

Just like that

Core material removed and spline test fitted

Final test fit

Wet everything with US Composites 635 epoxy then apply wood flour-thickened 635

Slide the parts together and clamp in place

Next day, the panels are ready for trimming

Looks good

The new settee begins to emerge

Time for mahogany veneers

Contact cement works best for thin veneers

When I use 1/8 mahogany plywood as the veneer (e.g. for the galley bulkhead), I prefer to use epoxy as the adhesive. But it just doesn’t work for thin veneer, so I use contact cement instead.

Two coats of contact cement on the panels and veneers, one to go

Once the cement is no longer tacky, I put some sticks down

The sticks keep the veneer away from the panel as I get ready to apply the veneer. I use a flexible plastic squeegee to press the veneer to the panel along one edge and then work my way across the panel. When I run into a stick, I pull it out and keep pressing the veneer to the panel. This helps avoid air bubbles and blisters. Once the cement on the panel touches the cement on the veneer, that’s it…so you have to do it right the first time.

Nice mahogany panel for the settee!

Lower panel looks good, too

Next day, trim the excess veneer with a razor knife

Sand the mahogany with 220 grit Mirka Abra Net

Next, I applied Pettit 1095 Standard Filler Stain to match the rest of the salon

Next day, the panels were ready for ICA base coat clear two-part urethane

Three coats later, the salon was very stinky

Definitely need carbon organic respirator filters when applying ICA.

Looks great the next day!

Sand with 220 grit Mirka again

Before re-coating, I made my final cuts to square up the panels

Just need to knock off some ugliness here

Three more hot coats of ICA base

I prefer natural mahogany, but that Pettit stain doesn’t look bad at all

Dry fitting the floor splines

Next I removed the Tricel core material for the floor spline

You’ve got to be very careful not to bend the face veneers with the core removed or the ICA will crack

Final test fit

Looks good!

Next, glue and screw the floor splines in place

Wet out the panel joint with 635 epoxy, then apply wood flour-thickened 635

Slide it all together, et voila!

Looks good at the top corner

Floor spline joint is tight

Nice transition to the pantry cabinet

Some day, I’ll make a face frame for the pantry cabinet that covers the plywood end grain. But for now, this is turning out exactly as I’d hoped!

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Dialing in the CAPAC Anti-Corrosion System