For Sale: 1972 Datsun 240Z Roadster

I’m selling my 1972 Datsun 240Z Roadster and all of the parts/components I have go with it on ebay in a 7-day auction.

Ebay doesn’t have a chat feature for ads, but my boat blog is set up to handle comments & questions on each page. So I’ve posted far more information and photos here than on the ebay ad. If you have questions or want to see more pictures, enter your comments down below and I’ll respond as quickly as I can.

Looked great in 1991 even though I hadn’t installed the bumpers yet

On the rotisserie in winter 2023

Some of the parts that come with the car

I bought this 1972 Datsun 240Z in 1984. It was metallic green and pretty much stock. My first upgrades were to install SEV Marchal Amplilux headlights, Datsun Comp headlight covers, a Momo steering wheel (it was the 80s, man) and upgraded to 4-pot front calipers but mostly kept the car stock.

SEV Marchal Ampilux headlights

Shortly thereafter, a high school buddy who apprenticed at a collector car body and paint restoration shop talked me into starting our own collision repair shop, which we built up over three years. We ultimately had a new Chief frame bench with laser alignment jigs, a downdraft spray booth, an on-site Sikkens urethane paint mixing system, and six employees. The shop was going well but our business relationship faltered, and in the end I agreed to sell my half of the business to him for cash plus turning my Z into a convertible.

Rear of the car (picture from 2001)

I started on the frame bench and discovered that my car had previously been crashed on the passenger side. The right front apron, rail, and core support have been replaced, as was the back half of the quarter panel on the same side. The repairs appear to have been professionally done and they held up fine even after all of the hard running I gave the car.

Since I planned to make it into a convertible, I first added structure to the floorboards by welding an 1/8” thick steel hat channel from the footwell areas of the firewall, under the floors on both sides, to the rear bulkhead. After priming the area, I sprayed on a heavy layer of undercoating to protect the metal.

1/8″ steel hat channel welded to floor and firewall (winter 2023 photo)

Next, I cut the top off, raked the windshield A-pillars back ~15° and chopped them two inches, then internally reinforced the pillars with round tubing that just fit. I had a local glass shop cut a new Datsun windshield to fit, and eventually installed it using modern urethane windshield caulk on the windshield pinch weld and a black plastic molding to cover the joint rather than using the original-style gasket and stainless molding.

Windshield pillar detail (2001)

Windshield (photo taken in 2001)

I also replaced the 240Z hood with a 280 hood with open vents to keep things cooler.

For the convertible top and trunk, I went to the junkyard and found a donor Fiat 124 Spider. The parts had to be substantially modified to fit and look right on the Datsun, but I think they turned out quite nicely. When the car was finished, I could pull up to a stop light, flip three latches, and throw the top open within ~5 seconds; putting it back up took maybe 7. And the interior was dry, the top didn’t leak.

Very smooth manual top (2001 picture)

Once the body work was done, the painter at the body shop sprayed the car with Sikkens white pearl top coated with clear urethane. Then I sent it over to a local interior shop and had the original seats re-padded and covered in cloth. He also made the canvas convertible top, refurbished the door panels, and installed custom black carpeting throughout.

Custom interior (photo from 2001)

While all that was being done, I upgraded to a semi-hotrod L28 engine, with light porting of the head, a performance camshaft, electronic ignition, headers, front and rear sway bars, adjustable camber bushings, quick steering knuckles, urethane bushings, and a “ground effects kit” (all from Motorsport, now www.thezstore.com), along with triple Mikuni 44 PHH carburetors, a 5-speed transmission, and Koni shock absorbers. I also upgraded to Enkei 92-series 16” wheels (painted to match the body) with Pirelli P7 tires. The car was quite the looker when I was done.

There is a picture of the car attached showing it done (except for the bumper installation) in 1987 or ‘88. I drove it daily for five years. The car was an outstanding performer. It was only when I pushed it to 10/10ths that I could detect just a slight bit of shimmy from the roof being gone. My friend’s 1968 Corvette roadster was significantly less rigid than my Datsun. But then thieves stole the car in 1991, leaving it up on blocks miles away, with the Enkei wheels gone and the side and rear portions of my ground effects kit destroyed in the process. My insurance didn’t cover full replacement value, so I replaced the Enkeis with cheaper 15” alloy wheels and Goodyear 205 50-15 tires that will come with the car now.

In 1992, I went to Japan and stayed for seven years. I left the car with my brother, who was renting barn space from a farmer for some things. While I was gone, he stopped paying rent to the farmer, who pushed everything outside under a tree. When I returned to the States, the paint looked dirty but shiny after a good washing and the engine ran OK. The biggest problem was that rust had attacked the firewall near the battery and also the doglegs low on the rear quarter panels, and some small cracks had appeared in the custom coachwork near the trunk.

Body filler ground out of cracked area near trunk (photo from 2005)

Body filler removed from crack zone on passenger side trunk filler piece

Add’l filler ground back from crack near trunk

I decided to do a major overhaul and redesign. I disassembled the car (keeping, I believe, every nut, bolt, washer, bracket, and strap), sandblasted the rusted areas, and built a rotisserie. While in Japan, I learned about the G-nose option that was highly prized among Datsun enthusiasts there. I bought an aftermarket, 2-piece G-nose kit, including fender flares, as well as NOS Nissan-brand G-nose hood hinges and headlight covers w/stainless rings.

OEM Nissan G-Nose headlight covers and stainless trim rings

OEM G-Nose hinges

New 2-piece G-Nose kit, not installed, just placed on/under the chassis for the photo

My plan was to fix the rusted areas, rebuild the engine, and have the car repainted pearl white, but with a red pearl ‘rising sun flag’ “meatball” centered on the hood with and rays extending out in all directions (a Japanese twist on the Union jack-themed 1970 Jag convertible in the 1999 comedy The Spy who Shagged Me).

Rust repair under battery tray

I also have the original steering wheel, steel wheels, and hubcaps for the car. I planned to get rid of the Momo wheel and go back to original, but the Momo wheel goes with the car.

I looked into having the original steel wheels modified for 15 or 16 inch substantially wider tires that would be compatible with the OEM hubcaps, but never got around to that mod.

OEM steel and aftermarket aluminum wheels & tires

Unfortunately, I was only able to finish part of the plan until life got in the way. I rebuilt the L28 using a combination of an overbored L28 block and crankshaft (balanced & polished), L24 rods (3mm longer than L28) big ends bored for L28 crank, and new pistons that would normally be used in a KA24E (89mm bore). I believe that yields ~2.949 liter displacement and ~9.5 static compression ratio. On the top end, the head is E88 with mild porting, a performance cam (I don’t recall the specs) and high performance spring kit w/lightweight aluminum retainers. Unfortunately, it’s been 22 years since the rebuild, and the ink has faded from many of the receipts I kept.

Rebuilt, zero hour, 3 liter L28

Triple Mikuni carbs w/K&N air filters and aluminum heat shield

Datsun Comp valve springs and lightweight aluminum retainers

Mikuni carbs, heat shield, headers

I stayed with the triple Mikuni carbs and header, and the exhaust system is still in excellent condition. The car comes with a new Tokiko strut and spring kit still in the box. Motorsport provided me with doglegs to replace the ones that rusted out.

Polished alternator and Nissan electronic ignition distributor

While I had it on the rotisserie, I decided to make the unibody structure more rigid by fabricating a sort of latticework frame of ½” square steel tubing that fit tightly to the interior floors, transmission tunnel, and door sills. After welding the cage to the original floors, tunnel, and sills, I then spot welded a sheetmetal skin over the cage, creating a quasi-honeycomb floor that makes the car even more rigid than it was before.

Quasi-honeycomb double floor and transmission tunnel

Then I got a job in 2003 that required me to move from Oregon to Maryland, and the Datsun has sat on the rotisserie in my garage ever since. I bar the engine over every few months, but I got into old Chris Craft boats in 2007 and the restoration/refit of my 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 has (and continues to) take up all of my free time. I’m not getting any younger, and I recently decided it’s time to pass my beloved Datsun on to the next owner. It has a clear Oregon title.

There is a 45-minute video in which I go through the car in great detail, showing all of the parts that come with it, as well as the areas of the car that were damaged and repaired: https://youtu.be/xBlvfsE1jRg.

Included parts list

Unless otherwise noted, all parts included in this sale are from my 1972 Datsun 240Z or are spares that fit it.

4x hubcaps, complete w/”Z” badges; 2x hubcaps, no badge

L/R front turn signals & marker lights

4x rear marker lights (L/R)

3x Strut top caps

1x alternator + belt; 1x L28 electronic distributor

2x wiring harnesses

2x front suspension struts w/4-pot caliper & adjustable camber bushings (L/R)

2x front suspension strut w/2 pot calipers (L/R)

4x front tension rods (2x L/R)

1x painted valve cover

2x wiper motor & linkage assemblies

3x wiper arms w/blades

G-nose front fender flairs

2x starters (1 w/gear reduction)

1x flywheel

1x clutch disk

1x clutch pressure plate

1x transmission plate

1x front cross member w/engine mounts

1x steering rack, complete

1x NOS tension rod bushing kit

1x NOS steering rack bushing kit

1x NOS stainless steel flexible brake line kit

1x NOS Cowl Panel Receiver kit

4x swaybar end links (F/R, urethane and rubber bushings)

2x dashboard filler cowels

4x fuel, clutch, & brake hard lines

1x custom carpet kit for entire interior

1x used OEM vinyl upper seat cover

2x original (believed) door panels

2x recovered vinyl door panels

2x recovered vinyl/carpet door panels

1x convertible top w/frame, canvas, & rear plastic folding window

1x trunk interior rear panel

2x trunk interior side panels

2x rear suspension struts w/drum brakes, links, & OEM rubber bushings (R/L)

2x rear bumpers

4x half shafts

2x right taillight assemblies

1x left taillight assembly

1x rear license plate light

1x rear tail light/license plate filler panels (L, Center, & R)

2x rear suspension struts w/drum brakes, links, & adjustable camber bushings (R/L)

1x NOS Tokico HPK 251 suspension kit

1x drive shaft

1x R200 differential (3.364:1 ratio)

1x R180 differential (3.364:1 ratio)

2x differential straps

2x differential mounts

1x NOS rocker dogleg patch panel

2x aluminum door sills “DATSUN” L/R

2x inner door sill covers (vinyl over stamped steel) L/R

2x parking brake lever assemblies

1x parking brake cable assemblies

1x throttle, brake, & clutch pedal rubber covers (spares in good used condition)

2x turn signal switches, headlight/running light switches

2x steering column assemblies

1x OEM steering wheel w/horn button

1.5x turn signal/light/ignition switch plastic cover

1x power brake booster & master cylinder

1x used OEM headlight case (R)

6x NOS 34mm Mikuni Solex side-draft carburetor venturies

1x NOS K&N filter care service kit.

1x distributor cap & wires

1x fuel distribution block (3 outlet)

2x fender filler panels (L/R, two sets)

1x NOS Summit® oil filter relocation kit

1x fuel pressure regulator

4x DATSUN emblems; 2x 240Z emblems

1x OEM “DATSUN” horn button (spare)

1x turn signal/light/ignition switch plastic cover

1x OEM engine inspection light assembly

1x rear view mirror

2x center console switch/light panel

1x center console switch/light indicators (spares)

1x complete welded exhaust system

2x OEM jack hatch assemblies

2x window regulator and door latch assemblies

1x fuel inlet hose

2x fuel doors

1x OEM fuel tank w straps

1x rubber fuel flap

List of additional parts that come with the car (all are shown in the 45-minute walk thru video)

lexan door windows (L/R)

L/R glass door windows

1x OEM chrome driver side door mirror

2x hood release cables w/ handles

2x clutch master cylinder

1x clutch slave cylinder

1x clutch fork

1x speedometer cable w/compensating gearbox for 15” wheel/tire combo

2x headlight retainer cases w/stainless headlight rings

1x front ventilation duct

1x upper strut bar

1x voltage regulator

1x ignition coil clamp

2x door moldings & seals (L/R)

2x glove box doors

1x dashboard w/original instruments

1x heater core/heater box assembly

1x heater fan/motor/housing assembly

2x heater box inlet ducts

2x heater box outlet ducts

2x heater hose assemblies

1x ignition switch w/2 keys

2x stainless steel door window seals (L/R 2 sets)

4x 15” aluminum wheels w/tires

4x OEM 14” steel wheels

1x OEM jack

1x OEM spare tire hold-down plate

1x OEM pressboard spare tire cover

1x radiator w/hoses & cap

2x seats (R/L) recovered in black velour

1x windshield

1x 280Z hood w/OEM vents

1x hood stay

1x hood cowel panel

1x battery access hatch

2x clutch master cylinder hatches

2x doors (L/R)

1x trunk lid

1x trunk latch release solenoid

4x cans containing every nut, bolt, and washer removed while disassembling the car

armrests

2x seatbelt latches

2x OEM horns (tested, working)

Additional Photos

Front of the car when last driven in April 2001

The windshield is only sitting in place. There’s no urethane or molding installed in this shot.

Passenger side apron, frame rail, and core support were replaced sometime prior to 1984, when I bought the car.

Sheet metal panels and 1″ square tubing installed in 2005 to completely separate the passenger compartment from the trunk and make the trunk filler panel more rigid/integral to the rest of the monocoque chassis. This solves the problem of exhaust being pulled through the trunk and into the passenger compartment, and should eliminate future cracks around the trunk opening.