With the aft stateroom vents installed, I can finally install most of the formerly hateful portholes that have been sitting around collecting dust since I re-assembled them back in 2016.
The plywood backer panel that surrounds each porthole is inset 1/4″ so the 1/4″ mahogany panel will be flush with the porthole…hole…that’s welded to the hull. But when I tried to install the interior porthole here, the upper right corner was floating 1/4″ proud of the mahogany panel. I could push that corner flush, but then the lower left corner would go 1/4″ high.
I could force the aluminum porthole frame into place, but that would put a twist in it, and the glass would shatter the first time I tried to lock the porthole window closed.
With this scrap board, I finally figured out the problem: Chris Craft didn’t weld this hole in square. I can’t fix that now without welding more 1/8″ aluminum plate to build up the edge. But that would destroy the paint, and I don’t want to do that. So after staring at it for a long time, I came up with a plan.
Because I sealed all of the plywood edges and back face with epoxy, and I sealed all of the edges of the porthole…holes…with Awlgrip aluminum primer, there are two good surfaces for sealant to adhere to. I don’t think it will be difficult to make this watertight.
The porthole frame is inset 1/2″ inside the porthole…hole, so the sealant will have plenty of contact with the exterior paint and should keep water out of the mahogany panel.
I like this crystal clear AnchorTech sealant. But you’ve got to work fast. It starts to gel within 10 minutes.
What looks like a crack in the glass in the pic above is a wire hanging from the tent frame outside.
Perfect clearance for the vent tubes.
A plastic squeegee takes the sealant off clean and leaves no way for water to get in there and make a ruckus.
The ones on the left are polished.
It’s tough to get the lighting right for pictures in the V-berth
The porthole sits flush up against the top of the porthole…tube it attaches to. But this tube wasn’t welded in square either, leaving a 1/4″ gap to the porthole on the bottom.
I’m using nylon washers to avoid scuffing the paint when I seated the panhead screws. It’s not as clean a look as if I’d just used the screws, but all it takes is one nick through to the aluminum below and water (even humidity in the air) will start destroying the pretty paint from underneath.
You can’t see the primer from the outside. If anybody ever complains about how unsightly that is, I’m kickin’ ’em off the boat. 😉
That’s almost a wrap for portholes. I’ve got the V-berth head porthole ready to install, and I’m doing some custom stuff for the laundry closet porthole. I’ll have those done before the boat launches in late October 2022.
Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Swim Platform.