I went to my soon-to-be home port marina yesterday and signed an annual contract for the best slip in the joint, effective July 1, 2023. Electricity is included, and it’s 1/4 less than the land storage fees at the current marina in Deale, MD (under new management). Can’t wait to move the boat. Unfortunately, the surveyor was supposed to get his report to me by Wednesday, but now he’s saying he hopes to finish it this weekend. Then it has to clear my insurance company, so I don’t see how I can splash on Monday.
That said, I started polishing the side deck handrail stanchions in 2016 and followed up by polishing three more stanchions in 2019. This article covers me finishing the polish job on the the remainder, including the big bow deck stainless safety rails earlier in the spring of 2023. Even though they’re not mission critical for launching, I’m trying to get them installed while I still have the scaffolding around the boat.
When I sanded the stainless in earlier efforts, I tilted the sander left and right, causing the pipe to roll back and forth on a wooden table top while I worked the sander up and down the length of the pipe. This time, I attached a pipe wall-mount fixture to the ShopSmith machine’s lathe faceplate, then threaded the stanchions into the fixture. On the opposite end, I installed a pointed lathe center then used a hole saw to cut a 7/8″ groove in a piece of 3/4″ plywood. Then I used a 1-1/4″ holesaw to remove that round piece with the groove in it, which I call a bushing. The stanchion pipe fits perfectly in the 7/8″ groove, and it’s naturally centered. I soaked the center hole in the plywood bushing with oil for lubrication, then used the quill (power head) feed handle to press the bushing home on the lathe center.
With the ShopSmith turning at it’s slowest setting, I started sanding with 220 or 400 grit, depending on how nasty each stanchion was.
There’s a professional polisher who has a youtube channel, and he highly recommends using WD-40 when sanding stainless in progressively finer grits. I have to say, it’s far messier than water and the paper doesn’t seem to last any longer. So I switched back to the tray of water.
I found that my plywood bushings would last for about four stanchions. When they wear too much, the stanchion goes off-center too easily and wobbles around too much.
I repeated the process for all of the straight stanchions.
I used a hole saw to make a 7/8″ hole in a 2×4, then I split the 2×4 down the middle to make two softwood jigs that I could use to clamp the bow rail to a table. The pine is super soft, so it doesn’t scratch even sections of the rail that I’d already polished. I’d clamp the rail down, then sand with progressive grits and polish, then move the jigs down and repeat the process.
What I found is that these chromed bronze rail fittings are very particular about how you orient them on the rail tubes. Even the straight stanchion tubes can be challenging. If the fittings absolutely won’t go on the tube one way, try gently turning them around the tube. The Y fitting above makes deep gouges if you force it. But if you rotate it to just the right position, it slides by that area very smoothly. Once past that area, it hung up again. No problem: just rotate it 180° and it once again slides easily past that area. Every time it starts to hang up, stop, back up a bit, and rotate it until you find the sweet spot. That’s the only way you can install these without gouging the polished stainless tube.
The wet/dry sandpaper seems to last 2-3 times longer when it’s lubricated.
I repeated that process along the entire length of both bow rails. It took about six hours to do both, but I think it’ll be worth it.
Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing Side Deck Stanchions
I may be completely wrong; however, since you have sanded on the stainless steel, do you need to do passivation to it? I know the small stainless rub rail on my boat had a small rust area on it where the previous owner got into something with it and I sanded the rust off and it came back. I used Citrisurf to do the passivation and the rust has not re-appeared.
Thanks Bill! I’ve polished boat stainless before but never passivated it. But it looks like it’s a good idea. Thanks for the heads-up on Citrisurf!
Cheers,
Q
Glad to help. So you know it, they have different viscosities available. Since I was using it on my rub rail, I purchased the thicker 2310 version which is more apt to stay on vertical surfaces.
Thanks! I just ordered some!
Great! I hope things come together quickly for you so you can splash her.
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I don’t remember when I started following your blog, but I just realized you’ve been at this for 16 years! Jesus, time really does fly.
Yup. It’s absolutely nuts.