I’m still working on waterproofing the starboard side of the salon, which has involved remaking a bilge vent duct and fiberglassing the main engine room air inlet duct panel. To gain access there, I removed the original electrical panel and did some repairs to it. Next I sealed it up with white-tinted epoxy.
Back side of the electric panel has been sealed with epoxy
Mahogany sticks were epoxied into the hinge screw holes
Two of the six hinge screws had stripped out the plywood, in part because the two pieces of plywood weren’t epoxied together and the screws were right at the joint between the two panels. I epoxied the two panels together and put mahogany sticks into the screw holes, so the screws will have something solid to thread into.
Back side
With the back side sealed up (but ugly), I mixed up some US Composites 150 series thick epoxy resin and tinted it with their white colorant. I used this approach for the bed foundation in the V-berth, too. The epoxy is a tough coating that works great in places where it’s not exposed to direct sunlight. And the colorant allows me to end up with a shiny coating and sealant in one step…no primer, no additional sanding.
Not bad!
NOS ammeters look great!
The date on the label for these new/old stock Simpson ammeters says 10/62. A 1967 Chris Craft Constellation I used to own had an ammeter just like this in addition to the Simpson voltmeter, and I wanted them on the Roamer, too. I found them on ebay for a good price, and they’re a perfect match to the original voltmeter.
Nice!
The genset hour meter cleaned up well, too.
Bilge pump switches look nice all polished and waxed
Not bad!
I have to box up the meters and switches, flip the panel over, and apply a coat of the 150 series epoxy tinted brown on the backside.
Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Refurbing the Original Electric Panel II
1969chriscraftroamer46 
Not Bad?? It’s going to be a Work of Art when your done with it !!
I would guess you’re going to Paint the Breaker Boxes the Original Gray??
Ah…the breaker boxes…
I’m having trouble finding the covers and doors. I removed them a decade ago, but unlike every other part for the boat, I can’t find ’em! In any case, I’ll probably just keep them original or something close to it.
Cheers,
Q
You have the patience of a saint! I have been following your progress for a while no and have saved up a couple of questions if I may. Why do you like to use wood flower and fumed silica rather than just fumed silica? And the white epoxy looks fantastic but is it UV stable? Thanks
Thanks Stephen! I like wood flour and fumed silica better than just fumed silica because it seems to resist sagging better, has good spreadability, and cures to roughly the same color as the mahogany I’m using. The tinted epoxy is absolutely not UV stable, but I’m only using it in places that aren’t exposed to direct sunlight. The electrical panel is behind cabinet doors, and the bed foundation will be under a mattress in the V-birth, which is pretty cave-like anyway. I wouldn’t use it in a place that would regularly see sunlight.
Cheers,
Q
Thanks. Ebay is certainly your friend when looking for new old stock (or used to be) I managed to find all original steering bits and drive parts for my baby Bertram for next to nothing (and several spares just in case).