1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Finishing the Exhaust Riser Insulation

With the V-berth head finally painted, I had the chance to do one of my favorite things: tearing off plastic and masking tape to reveal the finished paint job. I couldn’t resist temporarily putting a throne in the throne room, as we’re calling it. With that done, I spent a weekend dealing with my busted truck, but I also finished up the exhaust riser insulation. The risers are ready to install.

Finally! Light through the porthole opening!

Finally! Light through the porthole opening!

The fume extractor worked great, but having the duct in the porthole opening made the head very dark inside.

 

Test fitting “the throne”

Shower basin turned out very nice.

Shower basin turned out very nice.

I think it looks even better than the plan

I think it looks even better than the plan

The Throne Room plan

The Throne Room plan

Now…on to the exhaust insulation.

Starboard riser, double insulated and ready for final wrap

Starboard riser, double insulated and ready for final wrap

I wrapped this riser before with Inferno Wrap when I was still thinking about using a fiberglass hard shell. But since I’ve decided to skip the shell, I wanted to do a nicer job on the wrap.

Nice and uniform wrap

Nice and uniform wrap

I'll use stainless safety wire to secure the wrap when I install the risers

I’ll use stainless safety wire to secure the wrap when I install the risers

Time to insulate the port riser

Time to insulate the port riser

Cheapo Craft Bond holds the ceramic blanket in place well enough. It’ll cook off the first time I run the engines, but it only needs to last long enough for me to get the Inferno Wrap installed over the blanket material.

This bend before the showerhead will be much easier to insulate than the starboard side

This bend before the showerhead will be much easier to insulate than the starboard side

Several people have asked about the purpose of the 1/2″ tube coming off the showerhead. I explained my  raw water overflow bypass idea in the article on Welding the Starboard Exhaust Riser.

Cutting the ceramic blanket for the mandrel bends

Cutting the ceramic blanket for the mandrel bends

The leftovers come in very handy for filling in small gaps later on.

First 1

First 1″ layer of ceramic blanket is installed

Straight sections are easy

Straight sections are easy

Double-wrapped with 2

Double-wrapped with 2″ of ceramic blanket rated at 2,600°F continuous

The seams are where the leftovers go

The seams are where the leftovers go

Ready for Inferno Wrap

Ready for Inferno Wrap

Ready to be installed

And that, as they say, is a wrap.

And that, as they say, is a wrap.

So, finally, the risers are ready to install. Booyah.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Exhaust Risers

 

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: More Exhaust Riser Insulation

I wish everyone (myself included) a happy and productive 2017, which for me would entail getting this boat done enough that I can finally splash it and take it around to my home port!

With the exhaust risers welded up and the starboard riser insulated, I bought some high temp epoxy resin with the intention of making a hard shell to cover the insulation. But the more I try to make a hard shell, the less convinced I am that I can pull it off. I welcome any suggestions or comments about how to proceed.

DeAngelo riser I bought by mistake has a nice hard shell

DeAngelo riser I bought by mistake has a nice hard shell

I dissected this riser to see how DeAngelo makes them. It’s just a shiny fiberglass layer over dense blanket insulation. But this riser doesn’t have the sharp mandrel bends that mine does, so wrapping it would have been pretty easy. Then there’s the shiny coating, which appears to be just tinted resin that’s heavily saturated the fiberglass cloth below. The more I think about it, if I wet out fiberglass that much, gravity will take over and it’ll end up dripping onto the floor. All I can come up with is that I’d need to mount the riser in a low speed part rotator that kept moving until the resin set up to get a nice, uniform surface like DeAngelo does. Otherwise, I’d need to use the same approach as we did when we made the cabin top bullet-proof, and do the FRP layer, then top with fairing compound, THEN come back and sand, prime, and paint later. But fairing compound, epoxy primer, and urethane paint aren’t high temp products…that can’t be the right way to do it.

When last we talked about my risers...

When last we talked about my risers…

The 1″ ceramic blanket I’m using as primary insulation is outstanding to work with, and the Inferno Wrap is much, much easier to use than any fiberglass strip product I’ve seen. But after thinking about this over the last couple of weeks, I decided that if one layer of ceramic blanket is good, two would be even better. So…off came the Inferno Wrap and out came the scissors.

Two full inches of ceramic blanket insulation

Two full inches of ceramic blanket insulation

The mandrel bends are the tricky part

Where there's a will and spray glue...there's a way

Where there’s a will–and spray adhesive–there’s a way

Inferno Wrap locks the ceramic in place and looks good

Inferno Wrap locks the ceramic in place

I wasn’t going for a nice, uniform wrap because I was still planning on doing a fiberglass hard shell at this point. Even without uniform spacing, the Inferno Wrap looks good and holds everything securely. The Inferno Wrap manufacturer recommends the use of straps to permanently hold their product in place.

Ready for a test fit of the FRP layer

Ready for a test fit of the FRP layer

First, cut the 1708 into thin strips

First, cut the 1708 into thin strips

Heavy 1708 biaxial cloth cut into strips wraps very nicely

Heavy 1708 biaxial cloth cut into strips wraps very nicely, but only on the straight sections

At the sharp bends, the heavy cloth leaves high ridges at every overlap. At the exhaust flange, I never was able to get it to lay down nicely in full contact with the substrate, even though  I spent two whole days trying. Maybe if I overlayed the 1708 with a lighter fabric…

Overlaying the 1708 with 9oz fabric...epic fail

Overlaying the 1708 with 9oz fabric…epic fail

It turns out that the lighter 9 oz fabric lays down even worse around the tight mandrel bends than the 1708. It looked worse with the added layer. So, then I thought maybe I should use the 9 oz fabric as the base layer, and top that with pre-pregged 1708. So I gave that a couple of dry test fits…total failure.

At the end of a long and frustrating weekend...

At the end of a long and frustrating weekend…

I tried every permutation in wrapping the FRP, but none of them worked. Now I have a bunch of strips of fiberglass fabric with tattered edges from being handled too much, especially the lightweight stuff. I realize that when wetted out, fiberglass fabric can become quite pliable. But these mandrel bends are tight, and I don’t know how to keep everything in place and smooth until the resin cures.

It did occur to me that I could try wetting out the Inferno Wrap with resin and applying it. I also suspect that DeAngelo isn’t using straight fiberglass to get that nice, smooth finish. But then another thought occurred to me: why not just forget the hard shell? Granted, it’s prettier than fabric insulation blankets, and the hard shell would tend to reduce the possibility of corrosion under the somewhat permeable insulation. Plain Inferno Wrap would eventually get dirty, but if it does (and it bothered me) I could just put another layer on over the top. And there’s still that question of how to keep the resin dripping off until it cures.

I’m leaning toward abandoning the hard shell and just using the double ceramic blanket topped with Inferno Wrap, secured with stainless straps. Feel free to make suggestions/comments below.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Priming the V-berth Head

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Insulating the Starboard Exhaust Riser

Good news! The truck transmission is rebuilt!

Bad news! My wallet is significantly lighter, and now the catalytic converters are tripping codes! I may have to think about monetizing this blog!

Props to commenter Tom aka Florida Boater for reminding me about this hilarious song from the TV show Hee Haw in response to my last post lamenting my life as an old-school country western song. I hadn’t heard that song in decades, but it’s absolutely perfect for this refit! 🙂

That said, I finally wrapped up the welding on the stainless exhaust risers. Next is insulation on the dry sections. I initially planned to use Inferno Wrap from Heatshield Products, and bought 200′ worth of the 2″ wide version. But when I test wrapped one riser, I decided it just wasn’t thick enough to hold in the heat. A fellow on boatdiesel.com said that with 3/8″ of fiberglass wrap, he was seeing 400°F on the outside of the wrap during a run at high cruise speed. I want these things insulated well enough to be able to touch the exterior shell without getting burned. I considered using dry  fiberglass cloth since I’ve got lots left over and could easily build it up to a 1″ wrap or more. But then I found ceramic fiber blanket material. This  stuff is commonly used in the manufacture and installation of wood and pellet stoves. It’s rated for 2,600°F continuous, which is 2x what it will ever see, can easily be cut with professional-grade scissors, and comes in various thicknesses. I got a 1″ x 24″ x 50′ roll and gave my idea a go. It turned out pretty good, I think.

The mandrel bends are challenging

The mandrel bends are challenging

After doing some rough measuring and cutting, I snipped wedges out of the insulation so it would be able to have 100% contact with the the tubing around the mandrel bends. I used el cheapo spray adhesive to stick the center of the wrap to the tube, then snipped additional bits off of one section at a time to get just the right fit. Then I hit it with more spray adhesive, stuck the section in place, and moved on to the next. The spray adhesive isn’t heat rated. I’m only using it to keep the insulation in place until I do the second layer wrap. The adhesive is going to stink when I first run the engines, but once it cooks off I don’t expect it to be a problem.

Use Inferno Wrap as the second layer

Use Inferno Wrap as the second layer

In retrospect, I didn’t need the Inferno Wrap at all. I could have just cut a bunch of fiberglass strips from the rolls of cloth I’ve got leftover. But since I’ve got it, might as well use it.

Also, I found it was easiest to use a separate piece of the insulation blanket on the inside radius of the mandrel bends, then form a second piece on the outside radius and sides of the tubing. Doing it all in one go is unnecessary and much more difficult…just gotta make sure there’s 100% coverage.

That's much, much easier doing the mandrel bends with two pieces

That’s much, much easier doing the mandrel bends with two pieces

That's 1

That’s 1″ of ceramic fiber topped with Inferno Wrap

That should keep the heat in

That should keep the heat in

It looks like this approach will work. Next I’ll slice a bunch of strips off the 54″ rolls of fiberglass cloth I’ve got and wrap the riser again, then apply a final layer wetted out with high temp epoxy for the hard shell. Sounds like a good project for this weekend, but only after I get the catalytic converters swapped out in my truck.

Merry Christmas to you all!

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Safety Rail Stanchions (again)