1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Turbocators!

In order to splash the boat in 2016, I need to make the exterior waterproof and get the engines operational. After making an expensive mistake(/valuable lesson) on a set of exhaust risers, I decided to make a custom set myself. I ordered all of the stainless tubing and the exhaust flanges, which have already arrived, but I’m still waiting for my new TIG welding machine to get here. I could have gotten a TIG gun, a pedal, and just used my Miller Trailblazer 280, but the Onan two-cylinder air-cooled engine in that beast is noisy. It’s fine for working in the yard, where there’s not enough power to weld thick aluminum. But I’ll be welding these risers on a bench in my garage, so a welding machine powered by a 220v wall outlet will be nice and quiet. I figure any excuse to buy a new welder is a good one. 🙂

While I’m waiting for the new machine to show up, I also ordered Isspro Turbocator gauges from Seaboard Marine. The Turbocator gauges indicate boost and exhaust temp, both of which are very useful in determining if a turbo-diesel boat is propped right. There isn’t room in the Roamer instrument panel to add more gauges, but I’ve got an idea that might be kind of cool.

Isspro Turbocator with 3″ stainless bezel

Shortly after the Turbocators were delivered, I learned about Westach boost and EGT combo gauges that also come in the 3″ bezel size.

I think the Westach gauges look more era-appropriate

That Westach gauge is more attractive than the Isspro ones I bought, I think, but there’s no going back now. The 3″ diameter is crucial for the plan I’m kicking around.

Original Chris Craft gauges on my Roamer, rechromed, installed, and coated with wax

A 3″ bezel gauge will fit inside the chromed bezels used on Chris Craft gauges.

Ratty gauges bought on ebay might look good with Turbocators installed

Or maybe bigger-diameter tachometer bezels would be the way to go

I’m leaning toward retrofitting the Turbocators to the smaller Chris Craft gauge bezels and housings. Then I’ll use foam to model a housing for both that would fit between and take styling cues from the two original tachometer pods on the boat. I’d fiberglass the exterior of the foam model and paint the Turbocator pod to match the tachometers.

Something kinda like this, but twinned together

Well, that’s the plan. I’ve got all the parts now, I just need to get busy with the foam and fiberglass. But since this isn’t exactly mission critical, I’m going to keep pondering how to pull it off while I keep working on other things.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: Cleaning Up Cummins Parts

1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: Shiny Gauges Installed in the Dashboard

It’s been 2~3 years since I pulled the gauges from the helm dashboard. Kocian Instruments* did a good job making them nearly like new, and they’ve been sitting in a padded box in my basement ever since. With the starboard engine installed and the port engine up next, I need to get the gauges back in the boat and start figuring out the wiring–getting 1960s vintage SAE gauges to work with my Cummins 6CTAs (which I believe use non-SAE senders) will take some work.

• 2016 Update: Dale Kucian sold Kucian Instruments in 2014, and the company under new management is not one I can recommend. The full story from July 2016 is here: Trim Tabs & Gauges

Back in 2007, the dashboard was in rough shape but all original

2015 update: we sprayed the textured dashboard a lighter grey than the original

Wires roughly indicate position on the gauges

Nice!

Like-new Chris Craft Oil pressure, Temp, and Amp gauges

Tach pods painted with metallic black Awlgrip, to match the windshield frame

Test fit the OE tachometer

I had Kocian Instruments recalibrate the tachs from 0-5,000rpm to 4,000rpm, since the boat was originally gas powered but now has Cummins 6CTA diesels. By coincidence, the engines came with mechanical tachometer drives, so I decided to keep the tachs old school cable driven.

What a bear it was hooking up the drive cables!

Next connect the light and install the bracket

Attach the ground and tighten the bracket bolts

Then slide the tach home and tighten the screw at the back of the pod

Viewed from under the dash, it’s a mess o’ spaghetti

I now know what every single wire in there does. 🙂

Binnacle light wiring needs replacing

For such a low powered circuit, the compass light wiring sure took a beating. But the rest of the wiring looks surprisingly good, and the copper is bright.

Throttle and shifter control cables will need replacing

Three of the old Morse control cables had very smooth operation, which was surprising given their age, but one of them was pretty sticky. I could have just replaced the one, but the throttles on the injector pumps of my Cummins 6CTAs and ZF280 gear shift levers are in different locations than the old Super SeaMaster 534ci turbocharged and intercooled gas engines that were in the boat when I got it. So I’ll order a full set of new cables that are the proper length for this application.

For now, the dashboard is looking good!

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: The Curse of the #&*%^)! Helm Windshield