1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Painting the Stripes

With winter rapidly approaching, we’re in a race with Mother Nature to get the paint work done. We painted Awlcraft 2000 on the cabin top, decks, and aft enclosure during the summer, and the hull got “the shiny” as autumn 2013 settled into the area.  The only exterior paint work left to do are the accent stripes on the hull and the final coats of Imron MS1 High Gloss Clear on the mahogany toe rail. Last weekend, we got the blue stripes done.

The pictures we took when we first got the Roamer back in late 2007 were not especially helpful as a guide to what the stripes should look like now because the boat had been completely repainted some time in the early 1980s. The lines on the upper stripe, in particular, went up and down over the length of the boat and didn’t widen at the bow the way they should. We also looked at other Roamer 46 pictures, but it’s difficult to know where the proper lines should be since all of the boats seem to be slightly different.

I asked the stripe guru from Weaver Boatworks to come over, but the perfectly straight lines they use at Weaver didn’t work. The Weaver boats have no portholes in the hulls that they have to follow, so they can make their lines perfectly straight along any orientation the owners want. We have to make our stripe wide enough to cover all  of the portholes along the hull sides and the engine vents, too. But none of the rectangular porthole openings are perfectly aligned, and the ER vents and the forward round portholes are a different height than the rectangular ones. When the striping guru made perfectly straight lines that just covered the aft stateroom windows and ER vents, which is what all of the pictures of Roamer 46s look like, the lower lines went through the middle of the round port holes at the front of the boat. And when he made them wide enough to cover the round ports forward and rectangular ones all along the hull sides, the stripes were ridiculously wide aft!

So much for using perfectly straight lines on an old aluminum Chris Craft production boat…

After ripping down the fine-line tape twice(!), the stripe guru focused on the boot stripe while I eyeballed the upper stripe and just got ‘er done.

Taping off the stripes

Taping off the stripes

Once the stripes were taped off, we machine sanded the large areas using Mirka Abranet 320, taking care to avoid corners and the fine line tape. Then we went back and hand sanded all of the shiny spots right up to the tape line.

Taping the ER vents from the inside

Taping the ER vents from the inside

Hand masking film goes on next

Hand masking film goes on next to protect the new Alwcraft 2000 Matterhorn White

These boats originally had a “shadow box” paint layout for the stern, with the inset part of the transom and portholes the same color as the accent and boot stripe. Because this is an aluminum boat and there is no lazarette separating the transom from the aft stateroom, I felt a large area of dark painted exterior would add too much unwanted heat to the interior of the boat. So we’re only putting color on the transom at the boot stripe.

With the Matterhorn White protected, next we turned Tent Model IX (the best tent ever!) into a spray booth again.

Taped off, wiped down, tacked off, and ready to spray

Taped off, wiped down, tacked off, and ready to spray

This boat originally had dark green stripes, but we prefer blue. So we mixed up some Awlcraft 2000 Navy Blue, fired up the compressor and refrigerated air drier and suited up. The results were freakin’ outstanding, if I do say so myself.

Props to the Boatamalan painter!

Props to the Boatamalan* painter!

*Boatamalan: portmanteau indicating highly skilled boat workers of Central American origin. They’re actually from Honduras, but boat + [Guat]amalan has a nicer ring to it. ;-)

Talk about nice flow!

Talk about nice flow!

The fuzzy, spotty reflection is actually a mirror-like reflection of the translucent hand masking film covering the tent frames and very dirty exterior tent material.

No runs, even at the ER hatch gills.

No runs, even at the ER vent gills.

The blue line widens at the bow

The blue line widens at the bow and covers both porthole openings

Pix don't capture the shiny as well as the eye can

Pix don’t capture the shiny as well as the eye can, but this stuff is like a mirror!

Man, am I glad the exterior tent isn’t see-through. When I was walking around taking the pix, I was doin’ a happy dance all around the scaffolding! 🙂

Shiny!

Shiny!

I stopped dead with the happy dance though, when I turned toward the bow and saw the reflection in the pic below.

You can read the small print on the Sharkskin label in the reflection!

You can read the small print on the Sharkskin label in the reflection!

The picture doesn’t capture it entirely, but I hope you get the idea…seriously, the chief Boatamalan has absolutely mad skills when it comes to flowing out Awlgrip paint. And once again, he said the job is much cleaner than what they normally get on paint jobs at Weaver Boatworks, where the whole shop is full of flying dust and they can’t stop working for a day so the floating particles can settle out before spraying.

We’ll leave the plastic up for a week so we don’t have to re-tape when we spray the final coats of MS1 on the toe rail. Then that’s a wrap for the big paint work.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Propeller Shafts

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Tools of the Trade

If there’s one thing missing from most DIY boatyards, it’s adequate electrical power for a job the size of this refit. No matter what anybody says about how great their 120VAC compressors and welders are, when you’re talking about welding 1/4″ aluminum plate and fairing and painting a 46′ motor yacht, you’ve simply got to have 240VAC equipment. I checked into a lot of equipment options while the refit project was stalled because of the paperwork SNAFU. Once the SNAFU was resolved in 2012, I made the investment in equipment that would get the job done.

The heart of the system is this Miller Trailblazer 280NT welder.

Not only can this bad boy put out more than enough power to weld 1/4″ aluminum plate with constant voltage, constant current, MIG, TIG or stick processes, it’ll simultaneously provide 8,000 honest watts of AC electricity at 120 and/or 240VAC…and it can do it all day long. The downside is that the Onan V-twin engine in this thing is dang noisy. It’s also a thirsty beast, which makes the electricity it generates about 30x more expensive than line power. But when adequate line power doesn’t extend out into the yard, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Campbell Hausfeld 2-stage air compressor

When the painter calls for more compressed air than my little Craftsman 120v oil-free unit can provide, which is most of the time, Step One is to fire up the Trailblazer. Then I hit the switch on the Campbell Hausfeld compressor. The compressor works well enough, but a key take-home lesson on compressors is that whatever you think will be big enough won’t, in fact, be enough when the project is in full swing.

Air-powered equipment really varies in how much air they need, and this compressor, which is rated at 12.9CFM @175psi, can barely keep up with even one DA sander of the type the fairing crew prefers to use. With other, more frugal air equipment, the compressor keeps up fine with one or even two users. But when the whole crew is onsite, they need five of those air-hungry sanders going all day long!

There are all kinds of compressors that can crank out 34 to 50CFM, but at that point you’re talking 10 to 20hp motor requirements to drive the things, and that means 3 phase power. The Trailblazer makes plenty of juice, but I’d have to buy or build a phase converter to operate 3-phase equipment. It’s always something…

There’s also the practical usefulness of the equipment once the project is done. I may or may not keep the Trailblazer and the spoolgun and weld controller that go with it once we splash the boat, but the Campbell Hausfeld compressor is perfect for a well-equipped home shop. A bigger unit that can keep up with five hard working Boatamalans is just too much once the project’s done–I’d end up selling it, potentially at a loss. So, we get along with the Campbell Hausfeld even though the guys (who are spoiled by the unlimited air supply at their Weaver Boatworks’ day jobs) complain about running out of air.

No matter what compressor you use, though, compressed air tends to carry lots of water. And water in the air damages tools and creates havoc for painters.

Excell Refrigerated Air Dryer

After the compressor runs for 15 minutes or so, the air exiting the tank becomes warm enough to make the outlet port slightly warm to the touch even on cold mornings. Warm air carries more water, and you get drips from air tool exhausts after a while. When painting, this can be a disaster. I could significantly reduce the moisture in the air with an aftercooler between the high pressure side of the compressor to the tank, but I haven’t had time to make one. Since the air coming out of the tank doesn’t exceed 135*, I picked up a refrigerated dryer on ebay that can handle medium-temperature air. It works great. I put a filter before the unit to separate bulk water and particles, with a drop and valve to collect and drain water that condenses on the relatively co0l pipe wall. When it comes out of the dryer, the air is cool, clean, and very dry.

From the dryer it’s three feet over to another tee with a drop and valve at the bottom and a 10′ pipe up to the boat deck level. The iron pipe throughout the system acts as a passive aftercooler and helps to force any remaining moisture to condense on the cool pipe wall.

DeVilbiss QC3 filter and desiccant air dryer

This bad boy is the last filter in the fixed lines, and it captures whatever moisture or particles have managed to make it through the other components. The painter is happy with the results and says the air quality is good enough for spraying “the shiny.” Coming from a guy who paints multi-million dollar sportfish boats for Weaver Boatworks, where they’ve got a $40,000 compressed air system, I take that as high praise. 🙂

When we’re done with it, I may end up just selling this tent and equipment all together as a portable boat shop and spray booth…any takers??? 😉

This weekend we’ll longboard the Awl Quik we sprayed last weekend and, hopefully, spray the Awl Grip 545 prime coat on Sunday.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Longboarding the Cabin Top…and a surprise.