1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Sealing and Insulating V-berth Panels

Sep6

I’m still plodding along in the V-berth. Sealing all sides and insulating the back-side of all panels that face the hull adds a lot of time to the process, but we think it will be worth it in the end.

Mastermind fine kerf plunge saw is great for cutting hatches in panels

The laser on the saw isn’t very useful since it doesn’t perfectly align with the blade. But the metal guide that comes with it works well. With a 1/16″ kerf, it makes nice, tight hatches.

Jigsaw finishes the cuts in the corners

48-year old coating needs to come off

These panels were originally the V-berth bed foundations. Some water had come in through the hatch and ruined the sealer coat, but the wood underneath is in great shape.

Old school marine plywood

It took a lot of epoxy to fully wet out the back-side

The old plywood just kept drinking up the epoxy. It took four coats before it was finally saturated. Then I applied the hatch frames and Buffalo Batt insulation.

Press the insulation into the epoxy and go home

Next day, looks good!

Ready to paint the front side

Nice insulation!

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Helm Windshield Opener Cover

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Wrapping Up the V-berth Bed Foundation Frames

Jul11

Through yet another brutally hot summer in Tent Model XXX, I’m making fairly good progress on the V-berth bed foundation.

Midway framing will support the side cabinet top

I’ll make one more frame to support the back edge of the cabinet top panel.

Center beam needs some trimming

The length is just a bit too long, and it can’t pivot into place with square corners.

Angled cuts on the end will allow the center beam to pivot into place

Perfect!

That’s the last of the bed foundation frame pieces. Everything fits very nicely. Next I disassembled all of the frames, drilled pocket screw holes, and got ready to glue and screw it together permanently.

Pocket screws will hold each of the frames in place while the epoxy cures

That little Kreg pocket hole jig has paid for itself many times over.

Next, I insulated the top of the center cabinet

The sides, bottom, top, and back of each cabinet box are insulated with Buffalo Batt nonwoven fabric, which provides 3R insulation value and should eliminate condensation and otherwise keep heated or cooled air inside the boat. Insulating the back of every panel that faces the hull envelope adds a lot of time to the process, but I think it will be worth it in the end.

Done!

With sticky epoxy everywhere and 115°F temps in the salon (but only 85° outside), I decided to bail out at this point. I’m ready to cut the marine plywood panels that the mattress will rest on, which will also be the base for the side cabinetry that will tie the bed foundation to those beautiful and very difficult to install mahogany V-berth side walls.

The concept is coming together! Note: Sorry about the dead pix at the linked concept article. Unfortunately, I saved the pictures in some early articles on this blog on Photobucket, which has apparently updated it’s user policies to the point that pictures are no longer viewable unless visitors agree to open their computers up to a bunch of 3rd party pop-up ads. So the pix on the linked page are currently not loading. I’m working on downloading all of the pix and saving them at WordPress (which I think I’d like to cut ties to, as well, since they do the pop-up ads, too). Anyway, the pix should be available shortly.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Wrapping Up the V-berth Bed Foundation

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Insulating Mahogany Wall Panels

May24

With the stack of mahogany wall panels finally painted with eight coats of ICA base clear then topped with two coats of semi-matte, the next step involves insulating the back-side of each panel. The hull, decks, and cabin top are already insulated with spray foam, but I’m also using Buffalo Batts to insulate the back of each wall panel that faces the hull to make the boat more comfortable all year-round. Insulating each panel adds a lot of time to the process, but I think it’ll be worth it.

1.5″ thick Buffalo Batt provides R3 insulation value

Cut out areas where the panel contacts frames and mahogany cleats

Wet out the panel with epoxy

The epoxy serves two purposes: it seals the panel, giving it stability over time, and it acts like contact cement to hold the insulation in place and tight to the panel. I kept the epoxy away from the areas where the panel will contact the mahogany cleats that are attached to the aluminum ribs. I’ll wet that out and edge seal the panel, then apply wood flour-thickened epoxy when I bond it in place.