1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Wiring the Laundry Closet

With the walls and floor painted and the last panel fitted and varnished in the laundry closet, next I dug into the wiring.

Time to wire the laundry closet sub-panel

I ran the 8/4 supply cable a few weeks ago in the article about heading back into the aft stateroom.

Running 10/3 marine cable for the 240v dryer outlet and 12/3 for the air conditioner

Next, run 14/3 cable for the 120v washer outlet

I’m also doing a run of 14/3 from this sub-panel to the transom for outlets near the bed.

Draft-proof boxes should make the boat easier to keep warm or cool

Outlets are installed and holes are cut for the hot and cold washer spigots

I’m waiting for some Pex hose parts to show up, then I’ll install the water lines.

The top panel ‘clicks’ in place…nice fit!

Too pretty to be hidden behind a washer/dryer!

Good lookin’ laundry closet

That’s almost a wrap for the laundry closet. While I wait for the Pex parts to show up, I’ll get busy on the storage closet to the left.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Aft Storage/HVAC Closet

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Back Into the Aft Stateroom

With the mahogany panel work in the V-berth done, I headed back into the aft stateroom and started work on the laundry closet.

Back into the laundry closet after 18 months

The panel edges don’t line up

The top edge of the 3/4″ plywood wall panel is parallel to the floor, but the bottom edge of the mahogany porthole surround panel is parallel to the porthole openings, which appear to be at an angle that matches the  aluminum side deck. I don’t know how a professional woodworker would resolve this issue, but I decided to make a fancy mahogany cleat to attach to the bottom edge of the porthole surround panel.

This will make a fine cleat

I’m glad I kept most of the original mahogany bits and pieces when we disassembled the interior back in 2008. It’s come in very handy as I put it all back together.

First, I cut a deep 1/4″ slot

The Sharpie marks on the porthole surround panel align with the top of the 3/4″ wall panel

Align the corresponding marks on the cleat with the cutting edge of my track saw

Angled cuts are a breeze with the EZ-One track saw table

The back panel cleat is done

Next, I cut holes for the electrical outlets

Then I put in a run of 8/4 electrical cable

I decided to run 50 amp 240v service to a breaker sub-panel for the washer, dryer, and aft stateroom AC unit.

There’s enough room in the OEM wiring conduit

The breaker sub-panel will go there

After measuring the dryer, I also had to cut a section out of the back wall to make space for the vent duct. I’ll box in that area soon.

Holes cut

Nice view into the engine room

Breaker panel fits well

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Fitting the Laundry Closet Ceiling

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Removing the Original Electric Panel

With the OEM salon and galley cabinet interiors tricked out with mahogany veneers, I’m getting back to sealing up exterior holes to make the boat waterproof. I finished that on the port side of the salon already. To access the starboard side hull in the salon, I have to pull the original electrical panel out of the way. Chris Craft put hinges on the panel, so it’s easy enough to see the hull. But I need to get up close and personal with it, so the panel has to come out. That’ll also give me a chance to clean up the panel and get it ready for another half-century of use.

The electric panel resides behind double doors in the salon cabinetry

The cabinets are already refinished and ready for installation. I keep them at home so they won’t get damaged in the construction zone.

OEM Simpson volt meter doesn’t look bad, though the needle needs to be zeroed

After popping the meter out of the case, things look very good

All back together. Now to see if it functions

Booyah

Though this boat didn’t come with ammeters, my old Constellation 52 had one and I liked it. I bought some NOS Simpson units I want to install when I put this all back together.

The power selector switch appears to be in good shape

The panel is out

I thought this was 3/4″ plywood, but it turns out it’s two sheets of 1/2″

The hour meter for the genset was difficult to remove

You can see white powder on the aluminum housing for the hour meter. It’s bare aluminum, and the hole in the panel wasn’t sealed. So moisture that condensed on the metal wicked in and corroded the aluminum where it contacted the wood. Enough aluminum oxide built up to fill the gap and make it extremely difficult to remove the meter.

White aluminum oxide is incorporated in the plywood fibers

I used a holesaw to clear out the aluminum oxide, then scraped it off of the meter housing. I’ll coat the housing with clear enamel to protect the aluminum from now on. With the white powder gone, the meter fits in the hole a lot easier…but it’s still ugly.

Rough looking hour meter

Pretty hour meter

Gotta love Collinite metal polish.

Nasty bilge pump switch and panel

That wax is good stuff!

Pretty bilge pump switches and panel

Disassembling the electric panel

Separating the two halves

There was no glue holding the two panels together, and there was a surprising amount of movement between the two panels.

After sanding, the panels are ready to be glued and screwed back together

Fully saturated with epoxy and clamped flat

I plan on re-using the main AC and DC breaker panels, but I’m getting rid of the small breaker panel that was connected to the port engine battery. All 12v house loads will go through the starboard battery bank. The battery for the port engine will only be used for starting and running that engine. That will clear up some space on the electric panel, so I’ll relocate the AC power source selector switch and add those NOS ammeters in line with the OE voltmeter. But that will come a bit later.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Starboard Engine Room Vent Panel