For the boat to splash, I need a survey and approval from my insurance company. Neither of them are likely to approve of a bunch of loose wires around the boat, so getting the electrical system at least somewhat squared away is a priority. That’s why I recently installed a new main breaker and Marine Puck isolation transformers.
I renovated the salon electrical panel back in 2018 but never wrote about re-installing all of the breakers, switches, and gauges, so I’ll cover that here. More recently, I’ve also been re-commissioning the Englehard CAPAC impressed current anti-corrosion system, part of which is also in the salon electrical panel. I think it’s all coming together nicely.
The refurbed electrical panel turned out very nicely
I’m reusing the 12v and 120/240v distribution panels, generator breakers, and shore power selector switch
They’re all in good condition, and I see no reason to replace them. The bilge pump switches are also original, work fine, and look very cool.
These Simpson ammeters are NOS and dated 1962
This Roamer originally only came with a Simpson voltmeter. A 1967 Constellation I used to own also had ammeters, and I liked being able to monitor electrical load balancing. When the boat’s fully commissioned, if it turns out I’ve got too many things running on L1 or L2, the two legs that make up the 120/240 volt system on board, I’ll be able to move them to different breakers so things are more balanced.
The voltmeter and ammeters look great!
On the back-side
Bilge pump switches are original, but I polished the plates and had the knobs rechromed
The volt meter selector switch plate is original, but the switch is new
“Plant” means ‘light plant,’ which these days we call ‘generator’ or ‘genset’.
Magnum Inverter/charger panel is installed, but I needed to make holes for new gear
After cutting holes for new stuff, I sealed the edges with epoxy
Bilge pump cycle counter is handy for keeping tabs on potential leaks
The 1967 Constellation 52 that I used to own was a wooden boat, and I’ve carried with me a lot of the habits and preferences I picked up while we had that boat. Being able to tell if your bilge pump cycles more often than normal is helpful, since that can point to leaking rudder or prop shaft seals, etc.
The big panel in the picture above is the Panda genset controller. The controller cable that came with the unit isn’t long enough, so I’ll have to make an extension for it someday.
Next, I tackled the CAPAC panel
I wanted to confirm that the control board looks OK
I can’t find a manual for this system anywhere. The company that bought Englehard and continues to make CAPAC systems today has no records for this particular model. And unfortunately, I foolishly cut the wires without noting what they go to. When I started this refit I had no idea what a CAPAC system was or why it was installed on this boat, and I decided I was better off without it. But I’ll go into more detail on that in a future article.
The board is dusty, but I see nothing to indicate any components have gotten hot and let the smoke out
A little work with a small brush and vacuum cleaner cleaned it up nicely
With the circuit board clean, I next removed the gauge and knobs
I wanted to clean and polish the stainless but without removing any more of the lettering
That turned out a lot better than I’d hoped
If anybody knows what that yellow knob does, please let me know in the comments. It doesn’t push in, pull out, or rotate, near as I can tell.
The lettering is still legible
It looks great back where it belongs in the salon electrical panel
Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Making a Custom Instrument Panel
1969chriscraftroamer46 