1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Spraying “the Shiny” in the Aft Head

It’s been a long road getting to this point, but we finally have shiny Awlgrip sprayed in the aft head. The first step was installing the aft head walls. Then I had to install overhead wall panels in preparation for the spray foam insulation. To make a “unit bath,” with no seams between the wall panels, bulkheads, or ceiling, we fiberglassed and faired the walls. I also had to make moldings and the solid mahogany door pocket. The overhead light wiring had to get done next, then we fiberglassed in the ceiling panels. Fillets, sanding, priming with Awlquik, sanding, and final priming with Awlgrip 545 came next. And that brings us to today, when we spray the eggshell Awlgrip paint.

Awlgrip 545 primer is final sanded with 320 grit

Awlgrip 545 primer is final sanded with 320 grit

Good lookin' fillets...ready for the shiny

Good lookin’ fillets…ready for the shiny

Shiny!

Shiny!

Very nice fillets, if I do say so myself

Very nice fillets, if I do say so myself

Great reflection

Great reflection

The cleats in this corner will support the jet bathtub

The cleats that meet in this corner will support the jet bathtub

A jet bath was one of the missus’ “must have” requirements for the boat. The tub is up against the far wall, next to the hull. I’ll work on installing it and start on the cabinetry over the 2015~16 winter.

Big 12" fume extractor sucked the overspray out

Big 12″ fume extractor sucked the overspray out

The plastic is all removed in the pic above, but the whole aft stateroom was taped off, turning the head into its own spray booth. With the big fume extractor running, there was no overspray anywhere. The 20′ hose went up the aft stateroom hatch hole and connected to a big filter box. You can smell the thinner outside the filter box, but no particulates come through.

The corners turned out nicely, too

The corners turned out nicely, too

Door opening moldings were epoxied in prior to primer and paint

Door opening moldings were epoxied in prior to primer and paint

By installing the prefinished moldings before priming and painting, we’re able to fully seal the joint between the wall panel and molding. Using this approach, water simply cannot affect that joint.

That’s a wrap for the aft head paint, which is great news. But my next article is not so great news. Or, more precisely, it’s a follow-up on some expensive parts I bought, the problems I discovered, and the manufacturer’s pathetic product support.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Do NOT buy Globe Drivesavers

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Prepping the Aft Head for Paint

The aft head ceiling panels are installed, so the next step involves sanding everything down, final fairing, and priming.

After sanding the fillets, we sprayed Awlquik

After sanding the fillets, we sprayed Awlquik

Fillets look good!

Rattle can black guide coat helps make the fillets uniform

Rattle can black guide coat helps make the fillets uniform

Next, we sprayed Awlgrip 545 primer

Next, we sprayed Awlgrip 545 primer

Fillets look better at each step!

Fillets look better at each step!

Ready for final sanding

We’ll let the 545 cure overnight, then hit it with 320 grit before taping everything off and spraying the eggshell Awlgrip shiny.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Spraying “the Shiny” in the Aft Head

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Aft Head Ceiling Panels (more fillets!)

With the aft stateroom head walls fiberglassed and faired, the ceiling panels cut, fiberglassed, and faired, and the overhead wiring done, the next step is to install the ceiling panels, prime, and prep for paint. What we’re ultimately going for here is a nearly waterproof unit bathroom, in which the ceilings and walls are fiberglassed together, like an oversized shower enclosure.

1/4" marine plywood, fiberglassed and faired

1/4″ marine plywood ceiling panel that’s been fiberglassed and faired

It’s a lot easier to do flat fairing work on a table than it is overhead, but the epoxy, fiberglass, and fairing compound make these panels heavy and awkward to move around.

Panel 1 in place

Panel 1 in place

I didn’t have time to take pictures with sticky epoxy in play, but prior to installing the panel I wetted out the top side of the panel with epoxy, then applied epoxy thickened with wood flour and cabosil to each overhead frame. With a little help from a friend, I marked off the overhead frames and countersunk the screw holes before fastening the panel in place with stainless screws.

Panel 2 in place

Panel 2 glued and screwed in place

Corners and panel edges are glued and screwed all around

Corners and panel edges are glued and screwed all around

The joint between the panels will get a strip of fiberglass

The joint between the panels will get a strip of fiberglass

Thickened epoxy topped with wetted out fiberglass mat

Thickened epoxy topped with wetted out fiberglass mat

Edges get a strip of FRP, too

Panel edges get a strip of FRP to the longitudinal mahogany beam, too

Home-made epoxy fairing compound is hot-coated over FRP

Home-made epoxy fairing compound is hot-coated over FRP

It’s a lot easier to hot-coat tacky fiberglass with homemade fairing compound made of the same epoxy + a 70/30 mix of 3M microballoons and cabosil than it is to sand cured fiberglass and apply fairing compound. Hot-coating saves a really miserable step in the process.

After sanding the fairing compound, it's fillet time!

After sanding the fairing compound, it’s fillet time!

I do love my fillets. Seriously. Can’t get enough of ’em. Awlfair is a great product for fillet work, and it sands pretty easily, too.

Once the Awlfair sets up, we’ll hit it with Awlquik, sand, then Awlgrip 545 primer, and then final sand before painting with Eggshell Awlgrip.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Prepping the Aft Head for Paint.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Shiny Matterhorn White on the Hard Top (again)

I’ve finally caught up completely to where I was in May 2014 when the bastard thieves took everything they could carry out of the tent. The hard top was already painted, but since they stole the aluminum drip rails I had to break open the paint to fiberglass the edge where the drip rail would have mounted. The burglars also grabbed half of the aluminum helm windshield frame extrusions, and the new frame I had made required me to break open the paint on the cabin top and add some fairing compound to get the fit just right. We painted the windshield frame a week ago, and over this last weekend we painted the hard top and cabin top (again) with Matterhorn white Awlcraft 2000. I’ve gotten a lot of other things done over the last year in addition to recovering from the theft loss–the aft stateroom walls are in, the spray foam insulation is done, the galley bulkhead is in, and I made a gantry and installed the starboard engine–but with the paint work done I can finally put the theft behind me; from now on it’s all progress toward the goal of launching in 2016.

Taping off the hard top after sanding the Awlgrip 545 primer with 320 grit

Taping off the hard top after sanding the Awlgrip 545 primer with 320 grit

Fillets and fiberglass might even look better than the original aluminum drip rail

Fillets and fiberglass might even look better than the original aluminum drip rail

Fume extraction system

Fume extraction system

The 12″ axial fume extractor fan hose goes down to a filter box. At 2000cfm, the fan pulls in pretty much all of the fumes and overspray, and no particulates come through the filters. It’s a pretty slick system, and works especially well in confined spaces.

Cover Guard diamond plate plastic floor covering for dust-free walking space

Windshield area is ready for paint

Windshield area is ready for paint

New windshield frame paint is protected

New windshield frame paint is protected

Windshield frame bolt holes get taped from the salon side

Windshield frame bolt holes get taped from the salon side

Fans on...no overspray coming out

Painting in progress. Exhaust fans, on…no overspray coming out

Shiny!

Shiny!

My Boatamalan* painter calls Awlgrip topcoats “the shiny.” The guy has serious skills when it comes to laying this stuff out glossy and flat.

* Boatamalan: portmanteau indicating highly skilled boat workers of Central American origin. They’re actually from Honduras, but Boatamalan rolls off the tongue better. ;-)

Good lookin' fillets!

Good lookin’ fillets!

Foam roll tape is super expensive, but makes an invisible blend

Foam roll tape is super expensive for what you get, but it makes an invisible blend

Check out that reflection!

The major paint work is now a wrap. I sent the windshield frame patterns to Motion Windows, and the new helm station windshield windows should be done within six weeks. We’re letting the paint cure for a few weeks before installing the windshield, so I’m shifting gears and heading back down to continue on the aft stateroom head ceiling.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Moldings for the Aft Stateroom Head

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Sparkly Shiny Helm Windshield Frame

It’s nice when I make actual progress on this boat. Since the windshield frame extrusions and a bunch of other stuff were stolen by bastard thieves back in May 2014, a lot of what I’ve been doing has been playing catch-up, trying to get back to where I was before the burglars cleaned me out. Before the theft, I had spent a bunch of time, money, and effort getting the original windshield back into good condition.  I’d made the last of the new connector pieces and machined and welded together a new opening center windshield, since the original had been removed by a previous owner and replaced with a sheet of acrylic plastic. All I had to do was reassemble the windshield frame and install it…but then half of the extrusions were stolen. So I had to rebuild the tent into a spray booth (again) and do some fiberglass and fairing work all around the hardtop, since the thieves took my drip rails, too. I eventually got a new windshield frame welded together, though the fit wasn’t quite as good as it needed to be. So that necessitated breaking open my brand new Awlgrip paint job to modify the hardtop and cabin top to fit the new windshield frame. All of this effort wasn’t really making progress, it was just getting me back to where I was the day before the thieves ripped me off.

Well…I’ve now gotten past that point (on the windshield frame, at least). In the whirl of activity to get the windshield primed and painted, I forgot to snap pix along the way. But the frame got a couple coats of Awlgrip Max Cor CF aluminum primer. We sanded that and gave it a couple coats of Awl Grip 545 primer, then final sanded that with 320 grit and basically turned the aft deck into  a spray booth. The new windshield frame is all sparkly and shiny!

et voila! Shiny!

et voila! Shiny!

Check out that reflection!

Check out that reflection!

The paint is surprisingly dirt and blemish-free

The paint is surprisingly dirt and blemish-free

What looks like hazy nastiness in the pic above is actually the reflection of the plastic walls of the “spray booth,” perfectly reflected in the mirror-like finish of the paint. My Boatamalan painter has got serious skills when it comes to laying down Awlgrip.

Sparkly black metallic Awl Grip

Sparkly black metallic Awl Grip

dunno

The metallic black is subtle inside the tent…I wonder what it’ll look like out in the sun?

Shiny on the interior side, too

Shiny on the interior side, too

Spray booth disassembled in 2 minutes flat

Spray booth disassembled in 3 minutes flat

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Shiny Matterhorn White on the Hard Top (again)

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Helm Station Windshield III

With the paint around the helm windshield ground back and new fiberglass installed to fit the new windshield frame to this old boat, next I made the patterns for the new windows and we wrapped up the bodywork on the hardtop.

Center helm windshield pattern for new Motion Windows

Center helm windshield pattern for new Motion Windows

Motion Windows did a good job making the bow seat windows, and they say they’ll be able to produce a 2-pane center windshield with a fixed lower and hinged upper, like the original but better. That center opening windshield lets the breeze in and really makes the helm and aft deck pleasant when it’s warm outside. I was glad to hear they’ll be able to make it.

Center opening windshield typical of late '60s Chris Craft cruisers

Center opening windshield typical of late ’60s Chris Craft cruisers

I’m shipping the patterns off to Motion today, which means the windows should be ready to install before November. It’ll be nice to have glass back in the boat. With the patterns made, next we removed the frame and got busy with the final bodywork.

Windshield is back out

The hardtop is shaped to the windshield and sprayed with Awlquik

Lower windshield landing changed shape just a bit

Carbide blade shaped the new fiberglass

Carbide circular saw blade shaped the new fiberglass

Ah, yes…there’s nothing quite like being surrounded by fiberglass dust again. I hope we never have to do this again.

Several layers of new 'glass fill the old gaps

Several layers of new ‘glass fill the old gaps

The biggest gap filled with the most 'glass

The biggest gap filled with the most ‘glass

Oh, and here’s some free advice about fiberglass and marital bliss: Even fully suited up, it’s inevitable that some ‘glass dust will find a bare spot of skin. Fortunately, loofa sponges are great for scrubbing itchy glass fibers out of your skin after all the nasty FRP work is done.  But–and this is critical–DO NOT USE the missus’ loofa that’s always sitting there in the shower at home no matter how itchy you are. You’d think she wouldn’t mind, but apparently some of the glass fibers can end up taking up residence in the loofa and…um…surprising the loofa owner the next time she uses it.

Let me tell you, whoever came up with the phrase hell hath no fury like a woman scorned clearly never experienced the fury of a woman whose loofa has been tainted with FRP dust. Lesson learned…perfectly justified bruises heal. 😉

 

Black guide coat helps ensure consistent sanding

Black guide coat helps ensure consistent sanding

Primed and sanded hardtop

Primed and sanded hardtop

The hardtop fillets are turning out nice, and are a good alternative to the OEM aluminum drip rails that were stolen by the bastard thieves back in May 2014.

Guide coat sanding on the hardtop

Guide coat sanding on the hardtop

Awlgrip primer over shiny Awlgrip paint on the underside of the hard top at the transom

Awlgrip primer over shiny Awlgrip paint on the underside of the hard top at the transom

We’ve got to finish sanding the primer and prep for paint. But first, the windshield frame needs to be primed and painted since it will be much easier and a more efficient use of materials to tape off the freshly painted windshield to paint the hardtop than it would be if we put “the shiny” (as my Boatamalan painter calls it) on the hardtop first.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Sparkly Shiny Helm Windshield Frame

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Exhaust IV

Back in September 2012, I started working on the exhaust system. We’re going with side exhaust at the engine room rather than using the interior space consuming, 15-foot long run of corrosion-prone aluminum pipe that exits out the transom  in the original configuration. Waterlift mufflers should also make for a very quiet ride compared to the originals. By early October, the remaining components for the exhaust system were done and ready for the paint shop. The next step was to decommission the old system. The last thing to do before assembling the exhaust was to get the bits and pieces to the paint shop.

Exhaust bits on the way to the paint shop

Exhaust bits on the way to the paint shop

There were bits of fiberglass sticking out from the mufflers, and they’re razor sharp. The paint Centek uses on their mufflers isn’t the greatest, either, and the FRP connector pipes aren’t painted at all.

Back from the paint shop and shiny white

Back from the paint shop and shiny white

The boatamalan painter hit the parts with a DA, then a coat of Awl Grip High Build primer and some 545 primer I had left over from the hull paint job, and then topcoated over that with the Awlgrip Matterhorn white that was left over from the non-skid. Since these are just exhaust bits, he hotcoated them all (ie no sanding between coats, just wait for the recoat window and hit it with the next product).

Shiny exhaust oulets

Shiny exhaust oulets

But I have to say that the Boatamalans have a disturbing habit of filling holes with fairing compound. When I made the outlets, I drilled the holes very precisely so the orientation would be right when I reinstalled them. I also prefer that all holes have a coat of paint on the inside, and that’s accomplished by drilling then painting. When I turned the pieces over to be painted, I gave explicit instructions for them not to fill the holes. I was adamant about this, especially after spending almost two days clean fairing compound out of the holes to reinstall the stainless steel rub rail.  Alas! They filled the damned holes anyway! 😦

There’s no way to drill out the fairing compound from the back on the upper half, since the exhaust pipe is in the way. So I spent about two hours locating the hole centers and very carefully redrilling. What’s a couple of hours, right? Except that I can only work on the boat on weekends, so every hour is precious…it gets frustrating sometimes.

Nice fit

Holes drilled again and a nice fit

Taping off for the boot stripe

Ready to go back to the paint shop

Ready to go back to the paint shop

I’ll pick up the finished exhaust outlets this weekend, so if I find myself frustrated again by the helm windshield installation I’ll have something to distract me and give a sense of progress.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Boatyard in Winter…2014

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Update on the Bow Seat Windows

Back in early November 2013, I was very excited to finally see my new bow seat windows arrive. While they looked great coming out of the crate, on closer examination I found problems with quality control on the welds and weld finishing that would almost certainly lead to premature coating failure. Sure, the coatings would probably last through the two-year warranty period. But since I’m paying far more for these three windows than I will for all of the other new tinted glass throughout the boat, I felt the quality should reflect the marketing claims of the manufacturer and the price.

After a bit of discussion with the manufacturer, Motion Windows agreed to take the windows back and remanufacture them to their usual high standard. That’s good because, in addition to the weld and paint work issues, I also found that the frames were not built to the dimensions I specified…two out of the three would not fit into the window holes!

Motion Windows’ auto CAD spec sheet for the starboard window

And for the center and port windows

And for the center and port windows

1" mark = zero

1″ mark = zero

The pic above is the center window, and I’m measuring it’s height.  Note that I aligned the 1″ mark with the edge of the frame that fits into the window opening to avoid inaccuracy from the stainless piece at the end of the tape measure. The spec sheet indicates a height of 12-15/16″ for the center windshield, which was exactly the size of the 1/4″ plywood template I sent them. That template would go through the entire depth of the window opening without touching the sides…but just by a whisker. Everything should fit great as long as the windows aren’t made larger than the specification.

Since 1" = 0, 14" = 13"

Since 1″ = 0, 14″ = 13″

As indicated in the pic, the window frame height is actually 13″, which is a full 1/16″ larger than specified. But it gets worse at the corners where the welds are…

Add 3/64"~1/16" for the welds

Add 3/64″~1/16″ for the welds

Set the 1" mark at the edge of the weld and...

Set the 1″ mark at the edge of the weld and…

It's 13-1/8" (because we started at 1") on the far side of the opposite weld

It’s 13-1/16″ (because we started at 1″) on the far side of the opposite weld

A window that’s 13-1/16″ tall at the corners where the welds protrude cannot fit into a hole that’s 12-15/16″ in height. And if you look closely, that’s a heavy 13-1/16″…maybe even 13-3/32″. Either way, the windows are too big to fit in the holes, and I’m not grinding into my brand new Awlgrip paint job to make room!

Fortunately, Motion Windows did hold up on their end of the bargain. The windows are back in the crate and will be shipped back to the West Coast on Monday. I should get the new windows back in 30 days or so. While I’m not happy with the way things went, I have to commend Motion for standing behind their product and promising to improve their quality control.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Window Pains II

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Off Comes the Plastic (AKA the Paint Job is Done)!

I recently made some changes to the navigation on this site to make it easier to find articles. The new article index has every one listed in chronological order. When I look at the titles of the articles I’ve written recently, with so many of them focused on windows, portholes and glass instead of epoxy, fairing or sanding, it’s pretty clear the body and paint work part of the refit is coming to a close. The cabin top, hull and decks were sprayed over the summer of 2013, as was the mahogany toe rail (the first time around). The blue accent stripes have been painted for weeks. The only thing left to bring closure to the exterior paint job is to spray the final coats of Imron MS1 on the toe rail and take off all of the tape and masking film, which is precisely what we did last weekend, in mid-November 2013.

New mahogany toe rail sanded and ready for the final coats of Imron MS1

New mahogany toe rail sanded and ready for the final coats of Imron MS1

We went through a total of three cases of 2″ 3M 233+ tape on this paint job. If I never see another roll, it will be too soon!

Sanded, taped, wiped, tacked off and ready to spray

Sanded, taped, wiped, tacked off and ready to spray

The Boatamalan painter sprayed on Saturday, then we all went home. I returned the following morning to pull all of the tape and hand masking film. Some of it had been on the boat for almost a month, since we painted the hull in Awlcraft 2000 Matterhorn White.

Et voila!

Et voila!

Without further ado…off came the plastic!

The helm station view hasn't changed much

The helm station view hasn’t changed much since we painted the dashboard and cabin top

The side deck view looks the same as when we did the nonskid

The side deck view looks pretty much the same as when we did the nonskid

Even the bow hasn't changed all that much

Even the bow hasn’t changed all that much

But it sure is nice to see all of the bits uncovered at the same time.

Tinted bow seat windows look pretty good

Tinted bow seat windows look pretty good

I’m still working with the manufacturer on some issues with these windows, so they’re just dry fit here. Still, I like the way they turned out and the effect the tinted windows have against the white cabin top.

Need to install the bow seat hatches...soon

Need to install the bow seat hatches…soon

Dropping down off the bow, we can finally see the whole paint job…sorta. The tent limits how much you can see at any one time.

Nice stripe!

Nice stripe!

Wild shot looking up from ground level

Wild shot looking up from ground level

The mirror-like reflection of the tent frames and walls in the new Awlgrip 2000, coupled with the upper accent stripe and boot stripe plus the chine as it goes forward to the stem yielded a mind-bending result through the camera lens when I put it on forced flash.

Red, white & blue seems appropriate for an American classic

Red, white & blue seems appropriate for an American classic

Yes, that reflected paint can does say Awlgrip!

Yes, that reflected paint can does say Awlgrip!

Again, props to the Boatamalan for flowing out the paint so well.

Shiny!

Shiny!

Somebody opened the door of the tent while I was pulling all of the plastic. He commented that it didn’t look like any metal boat he’d ever seen.

I agree. 🙂

Dang wire from the tent got in the way of this otherwise excellent shot!

Stbd side looks good, too

Stbd side looks good, too

Tinted windows really finish the look

Tinted windows really finish the look

Yeah, baby :-)

Yeah, baby 🙂

That's a mound of masking tape and film

That’s a mound of masking tape and film

It took the better part of six hours to pull it all, and at the end of the day the pile was high. I’ll be getting my money’s worth in dry slip fees this month just in garbage disposal alone! lol

That’s basically a wrap for the paint work. Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Polishing the Stainless Rub Rails.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Painting the Stripes

With winter rapidly approaching, we’re in a race with Mother Nature to get the paint work done. We painted Awlcraft 2000 on the cabin top, decks, and aft enclosure during the summer, and the hull got “the shiny” as autumn 2013 settled into the area.  The only exterior paint work left to do are the accent stripes on the hull and the final coats of Imron MS1 High Gloss Clear on the mahogany toe rail. Last weekend, we got the blue stripes done.

The pictures we took when we first got the Roamer back in late 2007 were not especially helpful as a guide to what the stripes should look like now because the boat had been completely repainted some time in the early 1980s. The lines on the upper stripe, in particular, went up and down over the length of the boat and didn’t widen at the bow the way they should. We also looked at other Roamer 46 pictures, but it’s difficult to know where the proper lines should be since all of the boats seem to be slightly different.

I asked the stripe guru from Weaver Boatworks to come over, but the perfectly straight lines they use at Weaver didn’t work. The Weaver boats have no portholes in the hulls that they have to follow, so they can make their lines perfectly straight along any orientation the owners want. We have to make our stripe wide enough to cover all  of the portholes along the hull sides and the engine vents, too. But none of the rectangular porthole openings are perfectly aligned, and the ER vents and the forward round portholes are a different height than the rectangular ones. When the striping guru made perfectly straight lines that just covered the aft stateroom windows and ER vents, which is what all of the pictures of Roamer 46s look like, the lower lines went through the middle of the round port holes at the front of the boat. And when he made them wide enough to cover the round ports forward and rectangular ones all along the hull sides, the stripes were ridiculously wide aft!

So much for using perfectly straight lines on an old aluminum Chris Craft production boat…

After ripping down the fine-line tape twice(!), the stripe guru focused on the boot stripe while I eyeballed the upper stripe and just got ‘er done.

Taping off the stripes

Taping off the stripes

Once the stripes were taped off, we machine sanded the large areas using Mirka Abranet 320, taking care to avoid corners and the fine line tape. Then we went back and hand sanded all of the shiny spots right up to the tape line.

Taping the ER vents from the inside

Taping the ER vents from the inside

Hand masking film goes on next

Hand masking film goes on next to protect the new Alwcraft 2000 Matterhorn White

These boats originally had a “shadow box” paint layout for the stern, with the inset part of the transom and portholes the same color as the accent and boot stripe. Because this is an aluminum boat and there is no lazarette separating the transom from the aft stateroom, I felt a large area of dark painted exterior would add too much unwanted heat to the interior of the boat. So we’re only putting color on the transom at the boot stripe.

With the Matterhorn White protected, next we turned Tent Model IX (the best tent ever!) into a spray booth again.

Taped off, wiped down, tacked off, and ready to spray

Taped off, wiped down, tacked off, and ready to spray

This boat originally had dark green stripes, but we prefer blue. So we mixed up some Awlcraft 2000 Navy Blue, fired up the compressor and refrigerated air drier and suited up. The results were freakin’ outstanding, if I do say so myself.

Props to the Boatamalan painter!

Props to the Boatamalan* painter!

*Boatamalan: portmanteau indicating highly skilled boat workers of Central American origin. They’re actually from Honduras, but boat + [Guat]amalan has a nicer ring to it. ;-)

Talk about nice flow!

Talk about nice flow!

The fuzzy, spotty reflection is actually a mirror-like reflection of the translucent hand masking film covering the tent frames and very dirty exterior tent material.

No runs, even at the ER hatch gills.

No runs, even at the ER vent gills.

The blue line widens at the bow

The blue line widens at the bow and covers both porthole openings

Pix don't capture the shiny as well as the eye can

Pix don’t capture the shiny as well as the eye can, but this stuff is like a mirror!

Man, am I glad the exterior tent isn’t see-through. When I was walking around taking the pix, I was doin’ a happy dance all around the scaffolding! 🙂

Shiny!

Shiny!

I stopped dead with the happy dance though, when I turned toward the bow and saw the reflection in the pic below.

You can read the small print on the Sharkskin label in the reflection!

You can read the small print on the Sharkskin label in the reflection!

The picture doesn’t capture it entirely, but I hope you get the idea…seriously, the chief Boatamalan has absolutely mad skills when it comes to flowing out Awlgrip paint. And once again, he said the job is much cleaner than what they normally get on paint jobs at Weaver Boatworks, where the whole shop is full of flying dust and they can’t stop working for a day so the floating particles can settle out before spraying.

We’ll leave the plastic up for a week so we don’t have to re-tape when we spray the final coats of MS1 on the toe rail. Then that’s a wrap for the big paint work.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Propeller Shafts