1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing V-berth Head Moldings

I had to take a break from polishing stainless, so I installed some moldings for the v-berth head. This thing is taking forever to get done, in part, because of the scorching hot summer, but also because my painter hasn’t been feeling well recently. Hopefully, we’ll get it painted before autumn sets in and it gets too cold to paint.

The access panel behind the toilet needs to be squared up

The access panel behind the toilet and the hole it fits in need to be squared up

Eureka Zone track saw makes perfectly straight cuts

Eureka Zone track saw makes perfectly straight cuts

Just need to take off a smidgeon

Just need to take off a smidgeon

The panel is square

The panel is square

Rubber spacers that came with the new glass works to center the panel in the hole

I use the rubber spacers that came with the new glass to center the panel in the hole

Harbor Freight's multi-tool is perfect for squaring up the hole

Harbor Freight’s multi-tool is perfect for squaring up the hole

Squared up and ready for moldings

Squared up well enough and almost ready for moldings

The molding profile

The molding profile

After trimming off more of the panel edges to make room for the molding, it was time to start gluing. Fortunately, the painter came in, finished sanding the first prime coat, then sprayed Awlquik.

First, I wetted out the toilet paper storage space edges with epoxy

I wetted out the back-side of each molding after I did the plywood.

Epoxy thickened with a 30/70 mix of cabosil and wood flour

Epoxy thickened with a 30/70 mix of cabosil and wood flour

Apply wood flour-thickened epoxy to the moldings

Apply wood flour-thickened epoxy to the moldings

Rube Goldberg clamping system holds everything in place

Rube Goldberg clamping system holds everything in place

Every clamp, stick, and squeegee is absolutely essential

Every clamp, stick, screwdriver, scrap of plywood, and sanding pad is absolutely essential to hold the moldings in place

Good squeeze-out means there will be a good bond

Good squeeze-out means there will be a good bond on the moldings for the toilet paper cabinet

After cleaning up the squeeze-out with a squeegee and a final wipe with alcohol on a rag, I repeated the process for the panel moldings.

Ready for glue

Ready for glue

Variation on a trucker's hitch clamps all of the moldings to the panel

Variation on a trucker’s hitch clamps all of the moldings to the panel

Every stick and piece of string is essential

Every stick and piece of string is essential

After the epoxy cures and the clamps come off

Nice glue line

Nice glue line

Done!

Done!

Now I just need to wait for the painter to show up, finish sanding the Awlquik, and get the head ready for Awlgrip 545 primer.

In the meantime, I’m pushing forward with the exhaust risers.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Final Exhaust Riser Fit-up

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Sanding and Finishing the V-berth Head Moldings

With the moldings cut for the V-berth head, next I had to sand them and send them off to the paint shop to be coated with ICA base coat clear, then finished with ICA top coat clear. It’s still hot and humid in the Mid-Atlantic region, which isn’t helping the project move along. But even fits and starts are still moving forward.

Moldings ready for sanding

Moldings ready for sanding

My super-fancy molding sanding jig

My super-fancy molding sanding jig

Sanding two or three sides of delicate moldings is hard to do on a table without dinging the sanded edges and faces. This jig keeps the easily damaged visible parts scuff and scratch free. After sanding from 120, 240 and then 320 grit, the moldings are ready for the paint shop.

Pretty!

Pretty!

The panel on top will be framed with molding

The fiberglassed and faired panel on top will be framed with molding

The Throne Room

The Throne Room

First, square up the cabinet openings

First, square up the cabinet openings

I used a 4-1/2″ grinder and my Harbor Freight multi-tool to square up the fiberglass around the cabinet openings. The fiberglassed and faired panel will fit snugly in this opening, and the mahogany moldings will cover the joint.

Houston, we have a problem

I found a small spot where the fiberglass had separated from the plywood. We’ll have to break that open, wet it out real good, and backfill with wood flour-thickened epoxy, then fair again and apply Awlquick before I can finish up the molding installation. And because I can only work on weekends, that means another week will pass before the painter can get in here and finish up.

Dang it!

So I kept cutting and fitting moldings for the other cabinet opening.

Squared up and ready for moldings

Next up…the TP storage cabinet.

That's looking pretty good

That’s looking pretty good…dusty, but good

Ready for glue-up

Almost ready for glue-up

Houston...WTF?

Houston…WTF?

I found another spot where the fiberglass had pulled away from the plywood before the epoxy cured. Unfortunately, the Boatamalans didn’t spot these areas when they were fairing. That would have saved a lot of time. So now I’m waiting for them to repair these areas, then I’ll come back and get the moldings installed so they can continue with primer and paint. In the meantime, there’s plenty of other things going on.

Especially…shiny things. 🙂

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: More Chrome!

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Making V-berth Head Moldings

The scorching hot summer of 2016 is gradually coming to an end. But it seems as if every break in the heat happens in mid-week. By the weekend, it’s back up way above the average for this time of year. On the upside, it’s been good to get out of the tent and enjoy my other Chris Craft. On the downside, the V-berth head was supposed to be done by May 1…I’ve fallen far off schedule. But in between the heat and the boating, I did manage to finally get the moldings for the head made.

1968 Chris Craft Commander 42 anchored at Three Sisters on the upper Potomac river

1968 Chris Craft Commander 42 anchored at Three Sisters on the upper Potomac river

The water is very nice up at Three Sisters. In the pic above, that’s the Washington Monument off in the distance on 9/11/16. Meanwhile, back in the tent…

I need to make moldings for the door and cabinet openings

I need to make mahogany moldings for the door and cabinet openings

First, round a corner with the router

First, round a corner with the router

Next, cut a rabbet with the table saw

Next, cut a rabbet with the table saw

Next, cut the molding off from the board and repeat

Next, cut the molding off from the board and repeat

And repeat...

And repeat…

And repeat

And repeat

And keep repeating until there's no more stock

And keep repeating until there’s no more stock to hold onto

Run the last one through the Shopsmith bandsaw, which has a much thinner kerf than the table saw

Run the last one through the Shopsmith bandsaw, which has a thinner kerf than the table saw

Cabinet opening moldings are done

Cabinet opening moldings are done

Convert the Shopsmith into a shaper for the door moldings

Convert the Shopsmith into a shaper for the door moldings

Custom in-feed & out-feed tables are ready for action

Custom in-feed & out-feed tables are ready for action

That turned out pretty slick!

That turned out pretty slick!

Flip the board, and do it again

Cut the rabbet on my $40 new-to-me Craftsman table saw

Cut the rabbet on my $40 new-to-me Craftsman table saw

One pass to cut the rabbet, and another to rip off the molding

One pass to cut the rabbet, and another to rip off the molding

Door moldings are done and ready for sanding and finishing

Door moldings are done and ready for sanding and finishing

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Sanding and Finishing the V-berth Head Moldings

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Throne Room Door Opening

It’s absurdly hot and dripping humidity in the Mid-Atlantic. Summers are soooo much better west of the Rockies. But work on the V-berth head (AKA The Throne Room) is progressing nonetheless.

Laying out the door opening

Laying out the door opening

The wall panel on the left side has been ready to install for months, but for now it’s just dry fitted. I’ll screw the 1″ x 1″ mahogany cleat to the floor as a guide so the base panel won’t move when I glue and screw it home.

Solid mahogany narrow wall section will hold door hinge screws

Solid mahogany narrow wall section will hold door hinge screws

The bulkhead doesn’t provide a perfectly straight line for the door to hinge off of or close against, so I needed to add a narrow wall section to square up the door. Putting screws into plywood end grain doesn’t work for long, so I cut off a strip of solid mahogany that will do the job.

Good fit at the top

Good fit at the top

Bottom panel fits very nicely

Bottom panel fits very nicely, and the outline is marked with a pencil

Kreg Jr. pocket screw jig was worth the investment

Kreg Jr. pocket screw jig was worth the investment

A minute later, pocket screw holes are drilled

A minute later, pocket screw holes are drilled

Wood flour and epoxy...ready to glue and screw

Wood flour and epoxy…ready to glue and screw

First, wet out the wall pieces

First, wet out the wall pieces with epoxy

Next, wet out the bulkhead and floor along the glue line

Next, wet out the bulkhead and floor along the glue line

Once the glue lines are all wetted out with straight epoxy, I mixed up some wood flour-thickened epoxy and applied it to the wetted out areas.

Glue and screw before the epoxy kicks!

Glue and screw before the epoxy kicks!

Nice glue line to the corner piece

Nice glue line to the solid mahogany corner piece

Stubby hinge-side wall piece looks good

Stubby hinge-side wall piece looks good

Surprisingly nice pocket screwed and glued butt joint

Nearly invisible pocket screwed and glued butt joint

Looks exactly like the plan!

Looks almost exactly like the plan!

The Plan

Next step: fiberglass!

Next step: fiberglass!

There are few things that come to mind that are as nasty sounding as doing fiberglass work in the middle of a sticky, hot summer. Nonetheless, it’s gotta happen.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Fiberglassing the “Throne Room”

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Galley Storage

I wrote this article last year, but then I got busy and forgot to post it. Galley storage isn’t exactly required to splash the boat later this year, but I wanted to clear out the draft folder before I forget about it again.

Port side of the galley bulkhead is a good storage spot

Behind the port side galley bulkhead is a good storage spot

Behind this panel is one of the compartments I made when I reconfigured and strengthened the bow seat. Eventually, the panel will be glued and screwed in place, then covered with mahogany veneer. But first, I need to make the storage inside. After cutting and installing the 1″ x 1″ mahogany cleats that will support the top and side panels, I cut the panels themselves.

Good looking mahogany panels

Good looking mahogany panels

4th coat of varnish

4th coat of varnish

Once the varnish cured, I flipped the panel over and sealed the back-side with epoxy.

Sealed with epoxy

Sealed with epoxy

I’m leaving the edges uncoated because I’ll epoxy that area to the cleats, and I want the epoxy to really soak into the wood. While the epoxy was still wet, I applied a layer of insulation.

Buffalo Batt insulation should help control condensation

Buffalo Batt R-3 insulation should help control condensation

First panel installed, along with overhead insulation

First panel installed, along with overhead insulation

Overhead panel installed

Overhead panel installed

It was around this time that I decided tambour doors would be really cool here. Tambour doors have been around for centuries. You’ll see them on antique roll-top desks as well as “appliance garages” in modern homes. I believe Hatteras used them, too, though I’ve never seen a Chris Craft with them. I need to work out the details on the doors before I continue. I can buy a set, but mahogany from a door maker may not match what I’ve got already. From what I’ve read they’re not hard to make, so I’m tempted to DIY them. I’ll stew on that for a while and get back to this when other priorities are out of the way.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Reinforcing the Exhaust Parts

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Making Spacers for the Swim Platform

In 2014, I refinished the original teak swim platform then let it sit in my shop at home while I recovered from the bastard thieves who stole all of the parts, tools, and materials from the tent that year. Installing the platform got delayed again in 2015 when the boat next to mine exploded and damaged my paint and and the tent. But if I’m going to splash in 2016, I’ve got to get the platform installed since many of the bolts that attach it to the boat are below the waterline.

Original salon hatch frames, saved for re-purposing

I started out by cutting the old mahogany salon hatch frames into useful lengths, getting rid of all of the splits, cracks and other bad parts.

48 year-old mahogany frames show no rot

Right side of the mahogany frame shows a hint of rot…cutting off another  1/2″ should do

Next, rip each board with my Eurekazone track saw

Next, rip each board with my Eurekazone track saw

Looking good...ready for the bandsaw

Looking good…ready for the bandsaw

Shopsmith bandsaw easily handles the board width

Shopsmith bandsaw easily handles the width when truing the board face

Getting the angle just right

Tapered pine pattern will guide the cut, transferring the taper to the mahogany

Starting the cut

Starting the taper cut

The board is 3″ wide, and I don’t want the blade to twist when I push the wood through. So I’m using a 1/2″ 3tpi blade.

Second pass

Second pass

First spacer done

First spacer done

Once I worked out the steps, the rest went pretty fast

Once I worked out the steps, the rest went pretty fast

Next, drill the bolt holes

Next, drill the bolt holes slightly oversized for 3/8″ bolts

It’s really unfortunate Chris Craft didn’t manufacture the swim platform brackets to fit the boat. The transom is very close to perpendicular to the waterline, so all they had to do was make the top of the brackets (where the platform attaches) 90° to the upright mounting point. Instead, they made them 82°, which is why I need the tapered spacers.

Encapsulate in epoxy, then fiberglass

Encapsulate in epoxy, then fiberglass

I fully saturated the mahogany with epoxy, including the inside of the bolt holes, then laid on a layer of medium weight fiberglass. When the epoxy started getting tacky, I hot coated it with homemade underwater fairing compound.

Next day, touch up the fairing compound

Next day, touch up the fairing compound

Redrill pilot holes

Redrill pilot holes

Drill final holes with a 3/8" bit

Drill final holes with a 3/8″ bit, then chamfer the hole edge

The spacers are mahogany, but they’re completely encapsulated in plastic, even inside the bolt holes. With no breaks in the epoxy, once I get a barrier coat on them water won’t be able to attack the wood inside. But before I can apply barrier coat, I need to get a gallon kit of Devoe Bar-Rust 235. The local supplier stopped carrying it, and I’ve been having trouble finding a distributor in the area. So I’ll put the swim platform on hold and get to work on something else.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Helm Windshield is Finally Done

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Completing the Bow Seat Window Installation

With two out of three mahogany panels installed for the galley/bow seat windows, next I wrapped up installing the center window and the port panel and window.

Center and starboard bow seat windows are installed

Center and starboard bow seat windows are installed

The boat's filthy!

The boat’s filthy!

Once the outside is waterproof, I plan to wash the whole thing. Gotta get the windows in first.

Glue and clamp the port panel in place

Glue and clamp the port panel in place

2x4 pushes the edge tight to the side mahogany panel

2×4 pushes the edge tight to the side mahogany panel

Next day, off come the clamps and in goes the window

Next day, off come the clamps and in goes the window for a test fit

Nice fit at the corner [pats self on back]

Nice fit at the corner [pats self on back 🙂 ]

I’m a weekend warrior woodworker, so making these panels fit–with all of the angles and bevels–was a huge challenge. Fortunately, it turned out pretty good. After the way things have gone with most of the highly paid professionals on this refit, it feels good when a rookie like me does a better job than the pros.

Blow off the dust and get ready to install the window

Blow off the dust and get ready to install the window

Taped off and ready to install

Taped off and ready to install

Alcohol cleans the sealing surfaces, Sikaflex 291 LOT is the sealant, and I used some leftover Awlgrip T0170 Surface Cleaner to clean up any caulk residue that remains after I pull the tape.

Et voila! Dirty, but the bow seat windows are in

Center opening window is a very cool feature.

Motion Windows design is outstanding. I really like the center opening windows, and the fact that there are no exterior fasteners or holes to let in water. It’s too bad they consistently oversize the windows so they don’t fit in the window openings, and Motion’s unprofessional response to my complaint about oversizing should serve as a warning to anybody planning to purchase from them.

Et voila! Done!

Et voila! Done!

It’s great to finally have the bow seat windows and interior mahogany panels installed, especially with winter coming. And this winter looks like it’s going to be a whopper. Temps in the Mid-Atlantic region have been very warm in December, just like they were in 2003 when we first moved to the area. If the pattern holds, I expect that around the second week of January temps will drop below freezing and stay there for a month, though it hopefully won’t be as brutally cold as it was last year. We’ve had a few mornings that dropped below freezing, and I can already tell there’s a huge benefit from the spray foam insulation I installed earlier this year. So the cold won’t be an issue; the bigger concern is snow.

The boat explosion next door in July 2015 shredded my tent shrink wrap film and broke some of the tent frames in addition to blowing out a window and damaging my brand new Awlgrip paint. Tent Model X has been awesome–a vast improvement over Tent Models I through XI–and it was tough enough to survive Hurricane Sandy unscathed. But there’s no way post-explosion Tent Model X  can hold up to the roof loads of a snow storm, and I’ve got to re-make the scaffolding so the paint damage can be fixed. Which means I’m back in the tent-making business…

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Tent Model XXX

1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: New Galley Plywood Panels

With the salon stained and varnished and that galley board made pretty and installed, next I had to make, varnish, and install mahogany plywood panels to replace the rotten stuff around the galley windows.

As found in 2007

Rotten angled plywood between side and bow seat windows

The angled plywood panels on both sides of the galley were rotten from leaking bow seat windows.

Starboard panel removed in 2008

Starboard panel removed in 2008

I didn’t save the old panels, which would have made good patterns. No problem, though, because I’ve got a Eureka Zone EZ-One woodworking center that makes cutting perfect angles on ply a breeze.

Cutting the panels on my EZ-One

Cutting the panels on my EZ-One

Measuring and marking the panel took longer than the actual set-up and cutting with the EZ-One. Given the space I have to work in, there’s no way I could have done this with a table saw. The first panel needed a fraction of a degree of additional material cut from the angle. No problem–just put the panel under the track guide edge and position it so the saw cuts nothing on one end and 1/16″ at the far end of the cut. Set-up and the cut itself took less than a minute. Try that with a conventional table or panel saw!

New plywood panels stained and ready for ICA base coat clear

New plywood panels (fore and background) stained and ready for ICA base coat clear

Removing old bonding compound and roughing up the surface for the new panel

Removing old bonding compound and roughing up the surface for the new panel

Rough up the primer on the original cleats

Rough up the primer on the original backing blocks

Buffalo Batts provide R3 insulation on the backside of the panels

Using Buffalo Batt scraps to insulate the backside of the panel

Buffalo Batts provide the biggest “bang for the buck” when it comes to insulation that’s appropriate for the humid marine environment. I put the Buffalo Batt scraps on the panel in the pic above after coating the back with epoxy, yielding R3 insulation on the backside of the panels. The ICA clear on the face of the panel was already cured.

Wood flour-thickened epoxy coats the backing blocks and panel edges

Wood flour-thickened epoxy coats the backing blocks and panel edges

Chris Craft used bungs to cover screw holes that held their interiors together, but I’m trying to avoid bungs wherever possible. Like most new boats, this panel will be just glued in place with epoxy.

Fitted and clamped in place

Fitted and clamped in place

The new wood isn’t quite a perfect match to the 1968-era mahogany, but with the Pettit 1095p stain it’s pretty close.

Samsung custom panel clamp

Samsung custom panel clamp

That refrigerator has been a pain in the but ever since I moved it aboard after I got the paperwork SNAFU resolved back in 2012. It came in through the salon roof hatch hole on the same “crane day” as the Cummins 6CTAs and the washer and dryer that are in the aft stateroom, and the fridge has been in the way ever since. It was nice to finally have a use for the thing!

Looks good!

24 hours later, epoxy’s cured and clamps are off

I’ve got the starboard side mahogany panel ready to install, but some other things are calling for my attention. Motion Windows tells me my helm station windows are on the way, and winter is coming so it’s time to get the window frame installed. Also, I need to install the port engine before it gets too cold.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: Installing the New Helm Windshield Frame

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: A Mahogany Board Gets Pretty

We’ve been making lots of progress in recent years on this massive Chris Craft Roamer 46 refit project, and most articles I write tend to cover big stuff–sandblasting the hull inside and out, building the aft enclosure, making the salon roof bulletproof, installing an engine, or (recently) making the salon pretty. But every once in a while I like to focus in on some of the detail work and useful trivia–the moldings, more moldings, the occasional shout out for cool tools, and tools of the trade. So with all of the recent focus on big jobs (like the salon mahogany), I wanted to zoom in on the transformation of just one mahogany board.

As found, circa 2007

It didn’t look too bad at first–just needs to be cleaned up, strip the wood, a couple of coats of varnish and she’ll be good as new.

Or not.

On the right side of the picture above, just below the bow seat windows, there’s a spot of rotten bulkhead from where the window leaked. As we dug into it, we found the rot went all the way across. The original design of the bow seat windows was destined to fail and take out the wood below. But the solid mahogany board below the side windows in the galley…that was a keeper.

Out with the rotten wood, and the project grew

Rotten plywood and cabinets all removed

With the rotten plywood and cabinets gone, it was clear that one mahogany board was solid. It was also clear that the whole galley bulkhead needed replacing in order to turn the interior concepts I came up with during the paperwork SNAFU into reality.

The project grew still bigger, and the board was removed

After removal, the board sat in the lumber stack awaiting its time.

fast forward

Fast forward to September 2014

While the salon got sanded, stained, and clear coated, we gave the same treatment to lots of moldings, fascia boards, and other smaller pieces. The galley board also got hauled out of the lumber stack.

Fast forward to 2015

The old board fits up against the new galley bulkhead pretty well.

Fits just like before

Fits just like before, and that wood has great potential

The original bonding material is still stuck to the back-side of the board and the cabin sides. Once I grind that off, the board will fit much better.

The fit at the front isn't perfect

The fit at the front isn’t perfect, but it’ll do

The leading edge of the board will be mostly hidden inside of cabinets, like the original layout. Plus, I’ll be gluing and screwing the board in place; the wood flour-thickened epoxy will fill the gap between the board and the bulkhead.

Original bonding material isn't rock-hard

Original bonding material isn’t rock-hard

I don’t know what Chris Craft used to bond wood to fiberglass back in the day, but it definitely wasn’t anything like modern epoxies. The grey stuff is hard and sands well, but if you pry off the big blobs they bend like soft plastic before breaking. It’s not rock-hard like epoxy.

First cut clean-up with 36 grit on the Makita sander looks good

First cut clean-up with 36 grit on the Makita sander looks good

Back of the board is pretty much done

That dark stain on the salon end of the board will take some work to make it go away

Chris Craft's thick, white primer came off nicely, too

Chris Craft’s thick, white primer came off nicely, too

The remaining white primer will come off as we sand with 120 and 220, before we hit it with 320 grit and stain.

Test fit

Test fit looks good

Much better fit at the salon end

Much better fit at the salon end with the OE bonding material out of the way

But there's a fit problem in the galley

But there’s a fit problem in the galley

In the pic above, the board is seated against the bottom of the upright cleat, which is sticking out proud of the piece of wood at the bottom. Nice fit Chris Craft! 🙂

Scribe a straight line

Scribe a straight line

Need to knock off ~1/8

Need to knock off ~1/8″ from the bottom

The big, ugly galley board got pretty!

The big, ugly galley board got pretty!

We stained the board and sprayed it with ICA base coat clear along with all of the rest of the trim pieces.

Sprayed with ICA clear–right side, all the way at the bottom

While the ICA cured, I prepped the fiberglass

While the ICA cured, I prepped the fiberglass

Good lookin' board!

Good lookin’ board!

Buffalo Batts provide R3 insulation

Buffalo Batts provide R3 insulation

I really like working with this Buffalo Batt fabric insulation. It’s easy to handle, takes glue well, and you don’t get bits and pieces of itchy stuff falling off of it like you do with fiberglass. Plus, it’s cheap and doesn’t absorb water like fiberglass batts. Best bang for the buck of all the insulating materials I looked into.

Insulation is fitted; time for glue

Heavy coat of wood flour-thickened epoxy on the fiberglass

Heavy coat of wood flour-thickened epoxy on the fiberglass

Wet out the contact points on the back of the board

Wet out the contact points on the back of the board

Chris Craft didn’t coat the back-side of big pieces of wood like this one, though they did coat just about every other piece of mahogany used for framing. My theory is that not coating the wood permits moisture in through the back side, which can cause the varnish on the face to come loose, especially at the edges. So we gave the back-side of the board a few good, heavy coats of ICA. I ground the ICA back to bare wood at the contact points, so there will be a good epoxy bond all the way around.

Glued, screwed, and clamped in place

Glued, screwed, and clamped in place

The epoxy that squeezes out cleans up with a squeegee and alcohol on a rag.

Good lookin' board!

Good lookin’ board!

Fully clamped and waiting for the epoxy to cure

Fully clamped and waiting for the epoxy to cure

Insulation doing exactly what I'd hoped it would do

Insulation doing exactly what I’d hoped it would do

I can’t wait to unclamp the board and see how it looks. Then, I’ve got to install new plywood above the board to replace the rotten stuff we removed back in 2009 when the refit began.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: New Galley Plywood Panels

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Making the Aft Stateroom Steps Pretty

With the salon steps de-stapled, sanded, and stained, I set about doing the same thing for the steps down to the aft stateroom. Then I applied heavy coats of West System epoxy with 207 clear hardener. All I can say is, wow. The contrast between before and after is amazing, if I do say so myself.

Aft stateroom steps, sanded and de-stapled

Aft stateroom steps, sanded and de-stapled

Fortunately, the aft stateroom steps had no ring nails in them and they’d suffered no water damage. There were tons of staples from the carpeting that used to cover them, but they came out pretty easily. The wood looks good enough that I wish I could just clear coat them. But with the rest of the wood stained red, I’ll have to do the same here.

Nice ribbon stripe

Nice ribbon stripe

The worst of the staple holes

After staining the steps, I mixed up some West System epoxy and brushed on a few heavy coats. But first, a reminder of what I started with…

Before

Before

After

After

The worst-of-the-worst staple area turned out pretty good

Shiny!

Everybody knows that shiny = slippery, and the last thing I need is slippery steps. So the plan here is that the epoxy makes a tough, durable surface that doesn’t hide the beautiful wood. We’ll sand them later, once all of the work inside is done, and spray with Awlgrip clear with a satin additive. Then, we’ll tape off the treads and spray Awlgrip clear with non-skid. The non-skid will make the the wood grain a bit opaque, but it should still look great.

Aft steps look good, too

Staple holes? What staple holes???

Staple holes? What staple holes???

Niiiice

Niiiice

With the epoxy cured, I protected the work with Cover Guard surface protection film. As with the aft stateroom walls and salon walls that I covered with single flute corrugated paper after the base coat refinishing was done, it’s kind of disappointing to cover the prettiness. But it’s all for the best. Plus, unwrapping the boat when I’m done will be like the biggest Christmas ever! 🙂

With the steps prettied up and covered, I wanted to highlight in an article one single mahogany board in the galley. The transformation from the old ghost ship days, when we began the refit, to now is pretty cool.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: A Mahogany Board Gets Pretty