1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The Starboard Engine Runs!

I’ve been super busy with other things and haven’t had time to post updates here. I hope to get back into regular posting before long.

Despite the lack of posts here, I have been making progress on the refit. If things go as planned, I’ll begin dismantling Tent Model XXX the first week of June 2023 and splash the boat once I get the green light from my surveyor and insurance company. I’ve decided to keep the boat in a slip at the current marina for a month and will be making sure all necessary systems are 100% before taking off and heading to the marina closest to my home. It’ll be a 15 minute hop on country roads to go mess with the boat instead of the hour+ slog in awful Swamp-zone traffic that I’ve been doing since 2012.

Anyway, I posted my first attempt at getting the engines running last fall. The big news for today is that I recently resolved some problems I was having with the starboard engine, which I’ll cover in a future post, and got it running. It was 52°F overnight, so the engine room was cool when I first tried to start it. I installed oil pan heaters years ago but haven’t been using them, so the engine was at ambient temp. After two attempts cranking the starter for 10 seconds, it lit off on the third try but had a loping idle. The video below was the fourth start, and it jumped to life. Idle is rock-solid and the throttle behaves as it should.

Click “Cancel” after the video ends, or it will autoplay whatever video Rumble is promoting.

Stay tuned! I’ll post more (hopefully) soon.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Fuel System Fixes

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Exhaust Risers

Last week it was the Throne Room paint job that finally got done. This week, the exhaust risers got installed.

On the way to the boatyard

Hanging by a string

I suspended the showerhead from the CO2 fire extinguisher pipes to take the weight while I put the bolts in.

Starboard showerhead is pointed toward the muffler inlet

New old stock

I’ve had this 6″ exhaust hose for a long time, but it’s been wrapped in plastic and the rubber is still like-new. It’s nice to finally be installing stuff like this that’s been in the way for so long.

Starboard riser is installed

As a precaution, I used stainless safety wire to secure the Inferno Wrap, especially near the flange and the showerhead.

Not elegant, but it works

Exhaust temp sender

Temp sender base is installed in the flange port

Starboard side exhaust is done

Port side riser is ready to install

The flange gasket is hanging from the raw water outlet of the heat exchanger in the picture above. It’s not a metal gasket, which is what came with the engines. Hopefully, this type will seal better than the originals.

The OEM flange gaskets showed signs of leaking

Major blowouts

Port riser showerhead is pointing at the right place

Port riser hose is installed

Port exhaust temp sender is installed

The only thing left to complete the exhaust installation is installing raw water hoses. It’s taken a long time to get to this point, but it sure feels good getting this done.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: The V-berth Bulkhead

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: New Coolant Hoses, Clamps, and Coolant Test

While I wait for supplies to show up so I can finish the exhaust risers, I avoided the blistering heat of summer and headed into the relatively cool engine room to finish up the coolant systems.

Original(?) exhaust manifold coolant hose on the right side was kinked; new formed hose on left won’t

Turbo coolant hose also kinked

Constant torque clamps eat the bands

Another CT clamp cannibalized itself

I’ve never used Constant Torque clamps before, but I know some guys who swear by them. Clearly, Cummins likes them. But they seem to rip out the treaded portion of the bands. I suppose this could be from overtightening… Either way, I need to replace them. Like everything else, I figure out what parts I need, order them online, and hope they show up during the following week. I’ve pretty much stopped ordering parts locally, since state sales tax adds significantly to the cost of everything and shipping (even from far away places) tends to at least break even if not save money.

Out with the old, in with the new

Much better…no kinks!

New silicon turbo coolant return hose

I also replaced the exhaust manifold coolant return hose

With all of the lines replaced, I tested the coolant to make sure it was within specs. From what I’ve read, the 6CTA engines have sleeved blocks and additives are required in the coolant to avoid crevice corrosion. When I drained the coolant it was extremely clean, so I ordered some test kits to check the status.

First color band shows good glycol

Second band is in the middle  for molybdate

Third band is a tad low, but within spec for nitrite

Where the column and row cross is in the green at ~1.5SCA Units/Gal

Port side was in the green, too

So I refilled the coolant systems, and that’s another check box on the honey-do list. I’m still waiting for my argon diffuser to arrive so I can finish welding the exhaust risers. The only things left to do on the engines is wrap up the fuel system and raw water supply.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Building a Fume Extractor & Paint Filter Box

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: New Exhaust Risers III

I’m finally back from the funeral trip abroad. Jet lag is slowly getting better, and as the fog has been clearing it’s become apparent that the Roamer will not splash in 2016. I could rush to get it done and have it ready to bring around to my home port a month later than I planned. But I’ve learned that rushing generally doesn’t work out well, and I’d need to splash around a month past the time the yard starts packing boats in tight for the winter. The downside to leaving it in the yard for another winter is that I’ll keep having to waste several hours per day driving to the yard and back every weekend. On the upside, it’s a lot closer to my Boatamalan painter, so as I install more mahogany panels in the interior it’ll be easier for him to come out and spray the ICA clear coat. It’s not ideal, but it is what it is.

In other news, I got the dry side of the starboard exhaust riser cut and tacked together. It was a bit more challenging to work out the angles than the port side riser.

Starboard riser will have to make a loop

It would be super easy to just make a straight shot out of the turbo and point it down to the muffler inlet. But the easy road would end up potentially destroying the engine if the muffler was ever to fill with water, since gravity would cause the water to flow into the turbo and engine long before it went over the hump and out the side of the hull. To make the exhaust system inherently safe, I’ll need to have a loop coming off the turbo and going as high as possible before turning and pointing back toward the muffler opening.

X marks the spillover spot

In the pic above, there’s a 1″ x 1″ x 30″ mahogany cleat clamped to the muffler inlet, which tells me the direction the riser needs to point in at the showerhead outlet. I’ve also tied a red and white collapsible mop handle to the bottom of the U-bend that connects the muffler outlet to the exhaust port through the side of the hull. The mop handle indicates the spillover point. As long as the final turn of the dry section of tubing is above that point, even if the muffler fills with water completely, gravity will naturally force the water to drain out the exhaust rather than backing up into the turbo and engine.

Somewhere around here will be inherently safe

In the pic above, you can see the red mop handle clearly ~2″ or so below the bottom of the dry section exhaust tubing. That puts it well above the spillover point and also leaves sufficient room for the Inferno Wrap insulation I’ll use to keep the exhaust heat in the riser.

Trimming the tubing to fit the turbo flange

135° showerhead tubing + 90° turn is a bit too loopy

Final fitting before tacking

Unbolt the whole thing and line up the Sharpie marks

Let the tacking begin!

Tacked all around

Re-attach the riser, final fit, and mark the showerhead section

Remove the riser, line up the Sharpie marks, and tack all around

Tacking complete!

Loopy riser

Well above the spillover point

That wraps up Phase 1 of my riser build. They’re tacked together, with the showerhead ends pointing toward the muffler inlets. I’m still waiting for my argon diffuser to arrive, which I need to finish the welding. I’ve already got a couple of lengths of 6″ stainless tubing that I’ll use for the showerhead itself, but I also need to finish the CAD drawings for the showerhead end plates. Then I need to find somebody with a CNC cutting machine who can cut the ends per the CAD drawings.  All in due time.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: New Coolant Hoses, Clamps, and Coolant Test

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Reinforcing the Exhaust Parts

I’m juggling many different things on the Roamer refit right now, but all of them are essential must-do items if I’m going to splash later this year. Getting the Cummins 6CTA Diamonds attached to the exhaust system, fuel lines, and raw water are three of those things. Some exhaust parts arrived a while back, so it’s time to reinforce the fiberglass tubes where the clamps squeeze the hose. Without reinforcement, the clamps can cause the fiberglass to crack.

400 hours on the turbos, which both look good inside

New exhaust anti-crush sleeves and clamps

First, use a grinder to rough up the exterior of the clamp sleeves

Next, a die grinder roughs up the inside of the exhaust tubes

High temp epoxy bonds the sleeve to the elbow

One down, one to go

Muffler will need crush sleeves, too

In the pic above, the muffler is sitting on a tray I made using scrap aluminum sheet from the aft deck enclosure and 6063 aluminum angle. Because I’m using Centek waterlift mufflers, I wanted to position the muffler as low as possible so the spill-over point from the muffler to the exhaust outlet is lower than the spill-over point of the dry portion of the exhaust riser. That will make the exhaust system inherently safe by making it virtually impossible for sea water to back up into the dry part of the exhaust. I’ll be welding that muffler tray in soon.

The stick shows the direction the exhaust hose will have to take to meet the riser

While the epoxy cures for the crush sleeves in the exhaust elbows and outlets, I’m wrapping up fitting the muffler trays. But there’s other stuff going on, too.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Relocating the Fuel Tank Fills

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: New Exhaust Risers

The original Cummins exhaust risers that came with my Cummins 6CTAs take a 90° turn after exiting the turbo, but there is no way to safely point the exhaust toward toward my waterlift mufflers. The turbo would end up being on the low side of the system, and that’s bad news for wet marine exhaust–you don’t want water flowing back into the turbo and engine. So two years ago, I checked with several marine exhaust manufacturers about having custom exhaust risers made, with the dry section going as high in the engine room as possible before turning down with the showerhead pointing toward the waterlift mufflers. The estimates that came back were quite high–they averaged $5300 for both sides. So I held off on ordering a set until they were absolutely necessary. Well…we’ve reached that point now.

Oh, and those original, low hour Cummins risers are listed on my  For Sale page.

While I was waiting, I found some brand new DeAngelo hard shell marine exhausts on ebay. They were advertized as being made for Cummins 8.3 engines, which is what I’ve got, and the price was right. So for the last two years I’ve toyed around with the idea of buying those and modifying them to fit my application. Over the holidays, a friendly commenter mentioned the ones on ebay, so I pulled the trigger and bought them. The thing is, while I’d been aware of them for two years and thought about how I’d modify them, I never really investigated the parts themselves. Turns out that was an expensive lesson in why it’s important not to make rash decisions just because somebody double-dog dares you.

The box took a bit of a beating

Hard shell insulation coating is cracked and the turbo flange is bent

While it was unfortunate that one of the risers arrived damaged, I wasn’t really concerned about the hard shell being damaged since I would have to cut it off to modify the riser anyway. The flange was a bigger concern. I contacted the ebay seller and let him know about the damage on the one riser.

But the biggest problem of all was that on both risers the showerhead and raw water inlets were too big. The original Cummins risers for these engines have a 6″ diameter outlet, and the raw water inlet is 1-1/2″. These risers had an 8″ outlet and a 2″ water inlet. Without thinking it through very much, I figured I could just use a reducer between the showerhead and the muffler. So while the return was being processed on the damaged riser, I got to work dismantling the good one.

Good looking riser, but it’s too big

Like removing a cast after a broken bone has mended

Hard shell insulation removed

Intuitively, I like the fact that these risers quickly increase in diameter after leaving the turbo. It steps from 3-1/2″ at the flange to 4″, then immediately up to 4-1/2″ where it enters the insulated zone and then up to 5″. After the 5″ 45° turn, it goes up to 6″ the rest of the way. It makes a very complicated part, but that big pipe must be good for lowering back pressure. Since my port riser will be longer and have more bends than the starboard, I was thinking that maybe the fat pipe will compensate for the additional back pressure.

Cut-off wheel sliced through a welded joint where the 6″ pipe begins

Inside the pipe looks good

The whole time I was dismantling the riser, I was focused on the task and not really thinking about next steps. After I had it cut up, I started looking into the parts it would take to make this riser work. It turns out there are reducers, but they’re somewhat expensive. Then I remembered I’d have to buy two stainless anti-crush rings that go inside the fiberglass reducers. Then I’d still have to buy the materials to modify the riser and pay somebody to weld them up. I’ve had bad luck with fabricators in this area, so there’s that, too. I was looking at no less than $600 more to make each riser which, when added to the purchase price, is getting close to the cost of just having a set of risers custom made.

It was around this time that I really started kicking myself for buying these risers. The ebay ad was misleading, but I should have contacted the seller to verify the dimensions. When I realized they were too big, I should have just sent them both back. But then, with my new-found understanding of how these risers are made, I started thinking about just buying all of the materials and making a set myself…

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: New Riser Materials

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Servicing the Aftercoolers

The Cummins 6CTA engines in my Roamer are aftercooled turbo diesels. The aftercooler housing is cast aluminum, but the core is made of bronze. Since raw water runs through the core, these aftercoolers are notorious for the sort of corrosion problems you’d expect from dissimilar metals in saltwater. Making matters worse, Cummins apparently assembles the aftercoolers dry, with no grease, Tefgel, or anything else to lubricate the joint, isolate the metals, and make disassembly easy. These engines only have 400 hours on them, but they came from New York and ran in saltwater. There’s just a bit of the green verdigris around the lower aftercooler end cap, which is telling me it’s time for service. The diesel gurus at boatdiesel say the aftercoolers should be serviced every two years, and I’ll be following Tony Athens’ method.

Aluminum + bronze + saltwater = a few minor problems

After I popped the top off the aftercooler, I found a bit of aluminum and copper oxide outside the o-ring seal. This tells me there was a slight leak at the o-ring. I’m glad I decided to tear into this.

Green powder = evidence of an o-ring leak on the bottom, too

Bad hardware choice…add steel to the mix of metals

The hex bolts holding the ends on the aftercooler are standard sized. Unfortunately, that brings the edges of the hex heads so close to the bronze castings that a socket won’t fit. This isn’t a good scenario for an aftercooler that was leaking saltwater.

Bolts came out without snapping

I need to order new galvanized shoulder bolts for when I reassemble this. And they’ll get slathered with Tefgel when this goes back together.

Salt plugs one tube

Salt cleaned up pretty good

Light at the end of the tunnel?

The core tubes are clear now, so water flow won’t be restricted anymore.

Second aftercooler has similar issues with the o-ring on the top end

Cleans up pretty good though.

The water side of the aftercooler cleaned up pretty well, but the air side is still a question. Because the bronze cores were installed dry into the aluminum housings, I couldn’t convince them to come out. So I brought both aftercoolers down to the house, stood them up on end, and poured some automatic transmission fluid into the air side. Two days later, ATF started dripping out of one and a week later it started dripping out of the other. I flipped the housings over and repeated the process. Finally, after two weeks, some heat from a MAPP torch, and occasional encouragement from a 3# sledge hammer tapping on a block of wood laying across the top of the core, first one then the other core came out.

The core is not too bad

Needs a good soaking and clean up

Fortunately, the fins all look good and the corrosion on the ends was minor.

Sloppy solder work in one spot, but that shouldn’t affect the aftercooler

I’m soaking both cores in degreaser now and will clean them up over the weekend, then I’ll reassemble next week. In the meantime, the window shop finally sent replacement trim rings for my helm station windshield. Adding to the potential drama, a blizzard is forecast for the area tomorrow and Saturday, with 50mph gusts and no less than 12″ of snow predicted. We’ll see how Tent Model XXX holds up.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Mid-Atlantic Blizzard 2016

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Removing Unnecessary Cummins Parts

I got my Cummins 6CTAs installed over summer 2015 and need to wrap up the installation so I can splash the boat and bring it closer to home in 2016. One of the things I need to do is service the aftercoolers, and while I have them off I decided to eliminate some unnecessary electrical components–the intake air heater system and a noise suppressor that looks like it was installed as an afterthought.

A lot of the spaghetti in this pic comes from the air heaters

The air heater solenoids and CPU

Cummins engines don’t need the air heater to start. All they do is cut down on white smoke on cold starts. I installed 400w Moroso oil pan heaters when I put the engines in, so the air heaters have become a not very useful option. According to the gurus at boatdiesel.com, the air heaters are more trouble than they’re worth. Many work just fine, but a lot of them end up killing the alternator, and they can draw down battery voltage to the point that accessories stop working. There are some workarounds for those problems, but there’s another consideration in my install: in the pic above, you can see that the lower left solenoid is unbolted from its mounting plate and hanging there at an angle. I did that because otherwise the solenoid hits the stringer. You can also see that the electric terminals on the right-side solenoid are extremely close to my stringers, which are made of aluminum. By the size of the cables, it’s safe to assume that a lot of current can run through here. I don’t like having that much power that close to the conductive stringers. But I also didn’t want to cut the stringer to make clearance, and rearranging the solenoids or relocating the plate would take time. Given the recommendations over at boatdiesel.com, I’d rather just remove them and be done with it.

Remove bolts that attach the power cables to the grid heater

Remove cable from starter positive terminal

Track down wires that don’t connect to anything essential

Track down more wires that don’t connect to anything, and one that connects to the bellhousing tach sender

Air heater system fuse

Adding wires here that connect to a switch at the helm can give manual control to people who want to keep their heaters.

Carefully extract the wires from the loom, and out it comes

Ah HAAA! A solenoid in the process of failing

The hole that’s been burned through the plastic housing of this solenoid was on the under-side…never would have seen it without removing the whole thing. This is the kind of stuff the guys at boatdiesel warn about. Good riddance, I say.

Noise suppressor (the little box with the wires going to it) comes off the alternator next

Useless electrical gear removed from both engines

Much less spaghetti

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Servicing the Aftercoolers

1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: Installing the Port Engine III

With the Cummins engine mounts modified to fit my boat, the original engine beds cut off and new ones fabricated, and the engine bilges clean, next I need to mount the new engine beds, paint everything, and align the engine and gear to the propeller shaft.

Epoxy thickened with cabosil and powdered aluminum make a robust bonding agent

Slather on the thickened epoxy and prepare to clamp

Clamp in place, then scoop up and redistribute the excess epoxy that gets squeezed out

I use the excess epoxy to smooth the stringers where I cut off the old engine beds. It makes a sticky mess, though…have to be careful where you touch.

Clamped and curing

Front engine beds get the same epoxy & clamp treatment

Next day, off come the clamps

With the clamps off, I moved the engine into position to mark and drill the vibration isolator holes.

Couplers aligned. It’s time to drill vibration isolator holes

After drilling the vibration isolator holes, I used my home-built gantry to lift and move the engine out of the way.

Sand the stringers and engine beds with 80 grit

Outside stringer has plenty of clearance for the gear cooler

Inside rear stringer/engine bed is drilled and sanded

Outside rear engine bed drilled and sanded

Paint one side of the engine bilge & stringers, then slide the engine over and paint the other side

Next day, Devoe 235 Bar Rust is cured

Note the epoxy coating covers the inside of the bolt holes as well as the exterior surfaces. I never, ever want to have to paint this bilge again. 🙂

316 hardware coated with TefGel to completely isolate the metals

I know…it’s probably overkill. But I really, really, really never want to have to do this again. Keeping corrosion from starting is much better than fixing corrosion problems after they’ve started.

Front stringers are ready

316 SS hardware augments the epoxy bond up front, too.

I don’t think I’ve mentioned it before, but I’m using ceramic bubbles as an additive to the Devoe 235 Bar Rust epoxy I’m applying in the bilge spaces. Ceramic bubbles’ claim to fame is that it toughens coatings and also has insulating properties that lessen condensation. I don’t know if it actually works or not, but I bought a bag of the stuff back in 2009 when I first sandblasted and painted the bilges so I figure I might as well use it up here. One thing I know the ceramic does is make the epoxy absolutely resistant to flowing out smooth. You can’t roll and tip to get a smooth, glossy surface with this stuff. It’s kind of similar to very fine, roll-on non-skid.

Ready to align, with a dial indicator on the shaft and a feeler gauge for the coupler

It took less than 15 minutes to align the shaft and gear couplers to within 0.002″. Then I installed the Globe Drivesaver using the hardware I bought to replace the wrong-sized cap head bolts that Globe sends out with their kit. Lesson learned: Do Not Buy Globe Drivesavers. Still…I own ’em, so I might as well use ’em.

Globe Driversaver hardware–the wrong stuff and the right stuff

The short bolts on the right are the ones Globe supplied that don’t fit this application even though they claim it does. The 1/4″ longer bolts on the left are the ones this application requires.

With the Drivesaver installed, I pressed the stuffing box and hose onto the shaft log

Here’s another one of those Harbor Freight tools that’s worth the investment: the hydraulic port-a-power. It’s got a million and one uses, and I think I paid $75 for the kit on sale using a coupon.

Cutting Teflon packing at an angle so the ends overlap

Three turns of packing ought to do it

Safety wire on the coupler bolts and this Port Cummins 6CTA is installed!

I lost one of the T-bolt clamps for my stuffing box, but I suspect I’ll find it as I install more of the engine parts (e.g. strainers, exhaust, etc).

Boom…engine’s in, don’t need a chainfall any more

Salon floors going back in

Breaking down the gantry

With the beam loose, off comes the trolley

And then there was one…

Salon steps back in place, port engine install is a wrap…for now

Getting the engines installed was a big priority for 2015 and I expected to have it done back in the summer. Unfortunately, when the boat next to mine blew up in July, it threw a wrench in my schedule. Even if that didn’t happen, Motion Windows messing up my helm window build would have kept me from splashing this year anyway. It’s always something.

Speaking of Motion Windows…

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Motion Windows’ Response

1969 Chris Craft Roamer Refit: Installing the Port Engine II

After setting up the gantry, cutting off the original engine beds, and sending the original Cummins engine mounts off for modification, I’m ready to finish the port engine installation. It’s going a lot quicker than the starboard engine installation…lots of lessons learned there.

Before: inner rear engine mount needed machining

Rear engine mount with slot relocated to fit the Roamer

Rear engine bed parts made from 3/8″ thick aluminum angle

My Shopsmith Mark V table saw with the band saw and 12″ disk sander attachments made quick work of manufacturing the engine beds. It’s really nice to be able to use woodworking tools when machining aluminum, and the Shopsmith packs a lot of different tools into a small footprint.

Aluminum engine bed bonded with West System epoxy thickened with aluminum powder and cabosil

Front engine bed cut from 3/8″ aluminum angle

Filthy engine bilge needs some scrubbing

For an engine room that hasn’t had an engine run in it since I sandblasted and painted the bilge in 2009, there was a lot of oily residue under this engine. The oil actually came from the Ford Lehman engine I initially installed that was rebuilt by Chesapeake Marine Engineering. Consistent with the quality of other work Aric Euler did for me, the engine leaked oil and made a mess. The Lehmans are long gone though, and now the oily mess is, too. Good riddance!

Engine bilge cleaned up nicely

I also have to say that gantry I made is slick! [pats self on back]. Being able to move this one-ton engine around with one hand, or rotate it 90 degrees to get it out of the way is super helpful.

ZF 280A marine gear sump doesn’t clear the engine bed frame

The Cummins engines and ZF gears are identical side-to-side, so the clearance problems are somewhat different from the port side to the starboard. It turns out the port side was far easier to fit.

Bosch jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade easily makes space for the ZF gear

Moroso 400w engine oil pan heater installed

After sanding the paint off the aluminum oil pan, I wiped down the surface with acetone and bonded the Moroso oil pan heater directly to the metal. Then I ran a bead of RTV silicone around the pad and let it sit for 24 hours. With these oil pan heaters installed, I won’t need the (reportedly) troublesome intake air heaters that come from the factory on these Cummins engines. I may remove those later.

Original seacock has to go

The original seacocks were 1-1/2″, which is too small for the Cummins 6CTAs. I’ll cut out the old pipe and weld in new 2″ standpipes later, but first I need to remove the old seacock while the engine is out of the way. The tough part is getting the pipe wrench to bite without damaging the seacock (coming soon to the For Sale section) and still have swing room, but without bashing fingers on the metal framing. Demonstrating the timelessness of “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world,” I used a 2×4 to swing the pipe wrench and get the seacock moving.

Boom

Ready for the hole saw from the under-side

The epoxy bonding the rear engine beds together will take a day to cure, then I’ll bond them and the front engine beds to the stringers and paint everything with Devoe Bar Rust 235 epoxy coating in tintable white base. After that, I’ll drill and bolt the engine beds to the stringers to augment the epoxy bond and then final fit the engine.

Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Port Engine III