1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Safety Rails

While the cracks in the galley window openings were being repaired, I was staring at another issue that came up that needs to be resolved before the headliner can be installed  in the salon: the safety rails on the cabin top. Some of the attachment points and fasteners are up in the ceiling, so they’ll have to be in place when the headliner goes in.

First, I drilled through the OEM bolt holes in the salon ceiling frames

I have to admit it was a bit nerve-wracking thinking about drilling holes in my [sort of] new paint job.

Next, I measured to see how much safety rail I’d need

9′ x 2 = 18 feet, so I need a 20′ stick of 7/8″ marine stainless safety rail

Measure twice, cut once

Harbor Freight metal-cutting bandsaw was a great investment

This end piece goes somewhere around here

Putting the fitting on the far end of the tubing reveals the exact attachment spot

The fixture makes a good drill guide

That chrome is kind of yellow

I’ve had those OEM bronze pieces wrapped in tissue and sitting in a box at my house since I got them back from Metro Plating in DC waaaay back in 2009. It kind of looks to me like they polished through the chrome and into the nickel plating below. I’m not at all impressed with their work and may send this off to Hanlon Plating, which did a good job on my nautical themed ashtray and other precious bits a couple years ago.

Looks good

Repeat on the starboard side

Final cut on the handrail

And now for the trouble:

The OEM safety rail bolts aren’t long enough

I’ve got many examples of the original 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 oval head chromed bronze machine screws that go through the salon ceiling frames and OEM fiberglass cabintop to thread into the safety rail guides and ends, as well as the big hunk of chromed bronze that makes up the mast base.

But…

I decided to use Whisper Wall headliner, and the tracks for it put the fabric 1/2″ proud of the original ceiling frames. That’s why I had to do all that work making light mounting panels that were 1/2″ higher than they would have been with an original-style headliner that staples directly to the frames. Add to that the additional thickness of the kevlar and fiberglass “bullet-proof cabin top,” and the bolts are all too short. You could see the problem in the first picture at the top of this article. Only 1-1/2 threads stick up clear of the cabin top, and that’s without a washer in place, which drops the threaded part down even lower in the hole from the topside.

I’ve looked everywhere for replacement hardware. I found 1/4-20 stainless screws at McMaster-Carr that are long enough (5-3/4″, so 6″ works) and can be polished to look like chrome, but they don’t have 5/16-18 that are long enough (5-1/2″,  so 3″ won’t do). Fastenal came closer, but 5″ isn’t long enough when you need 5-1/2″. A buddy recommended Buck Algonquin, and it turns out they’ve got bronze strut bolts in 5/16-18 x 5-1/2″ long…but they’re slotted, not Phillips or Reed Prince, like the originals, and they’d need to be chromed, which would add to the cost.

I considered using stainless all-thread, which is readily available and cheap. Acorn nuts would be easy and cheap but not very attractive. Since these machine screw heads go through the headliner and will be very visible, attractive is a factor.  I have ideas for making custom oval head nuts that would be attractive, but neither easy nor cheap. Attractive stainless machine screws that are long enough can be ordered at a good price per unit, but you have to buy a minimum of 700, which isn’t cheap since I only need five. Which leaves me with this thought: how about taking the fasteners I’ve got and cutting off bits and pieces and welding them onto the existing chromed bronze bolts, extending their length as needed? It’s not a pretty solution, but I think it’d work.

If anybody knows where to get 5-1/2″ stainless oval head Phillips machine screws, please let me know in the comments.

Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Spacers for the Safety Rail Bolts in the Salon

12 comments on “1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Safety Rails

  1. Manuel's avatar Manuel says:

    6” minus 1/2”?

    • 1969roamer46's avatar admin says:

      Hi Manuel.
      I’m not sure if I understand your comment, but that’s read as “six and one-half inches.” I needed machine screws that were five and three-quarters and five and one-half inches long.
      Cheers,
      Q

  2. Dan's avatar Dan says:

    Try the hex couplers but turn them down on a lathe. That will reduce the amount you have to drill out considerably.

  3. Terry's avatar Terry says:

    This may be a case where your TIG welder and some stainless steel filler wire will save the day.

    • 1969roamer46's avatar admin says:

      Thanks Frederic, but Brikksen was the manufacturer who said they’d be happy to run off 700 of them (minimum order) at a great price/unit!
      I need five.

      • Frederic's avatar Frederic says:

        My friend called me back and said she can only get me 5”. One thought I had was that you can get a bag of 3” screws, then get some 5/16-18 nuts…join two screws together with a nut, to get them lined up straight, TIG the nut to both screws, cut the head off of one screw, and then grind the nut down flush with the screws. It’ll be hidden so no one’ll know.

  4. Frederic's avatar Frederic says:

    Q,

    I put in a call with a friend who works at a fastener shop and she’s calling all of her suppliers. She asked me how much was needed and since you didn’t say in your blog, I told her a dozen. I’ll get an answer back sometime today hopefully.

    Frederic

  5. Doug SHuman's avatar Doug SHuman says:

    Q,
    Since the headliner could be removed and re-installed in the future if the need ever arises, why do the bolts have to extend so far? Maybe drill out a nut & socket size hole in the interior ceiling to allow for using slightly shorter bolts and securing them with a washer & nut inside the enlarged access hole. This also allows an unblemished headliner.
    Best,
    Doug

    • 1969roamer46's avatar admin says:

      Thanks for the idea, Doug!
      Actually, the big, chromed bronze oval heads and washers look really nice against the headliner. The thing is, Whisper Wall CAN be removed and reinstalled, but it won’t be as well tensioned as it was the first time around. I like the idea of recessing to account for the added layers on top, but I like even more the notion of having regular maintenance items that can be regularly maintained without any loss of appearance or performance of the surrounding material.

  6. Paul A Ruszczyk's avatar Paul A Ruszczyk says:

    Q, have you thought about using coupling nuts and locktite? Run the orginal screw down from outside, add locktite and the coupling nut, then, you can use a screw in the headliner the correct length.

    Love following your work and am very impressed with you planning and level of detail.
    I was dissappointed when you changed out the mufflers, you wont have that classic Roamer rumble.
    Keep up the good work!

    • 1969roamer46's avatar admin says:

      That’s an interesting idea, Paul. The first thought that comes to me is that I’d have to drill out the ceiling frames to recess the coupling nuts. That’d take quite a bit of meat out of the frames at two points along their span. Hmmm….you’ve given me something to ponder on.

      On the mufflers, they had to go! The steel suitcase mufflers were rotted out and so were the aluminum pipes going aft! Plus, the droning on my Connie 52 (Detroit 671Ns) and Commander 42 (Ford 427s), especially on long cruises, was enough to convince me that waterlifts were the way to go. All the better to hear the turbos whistling away!!!

      Thanks again for that idea. I like it but want to take some measurements and do some calculations.
      Cheers,
      Q

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