With the big glass order having arrived, I could finally set about closing up exterior holes…like the forward hatch, which has been beautifully painted since 2014. Before that, for several decades it wasn’t exactly a pretty thing. I think it looks even better with tinted glass rather than the original frosted white glass.
The original hatches came with painted over stainless screws, and they used conventional window glazing that gets hard and eventually cracks and loses the bond. Then you get water into the screw holes and corrosion sets in. Fortunately, there wasn’t too much white aluminum oxide in this hatch. But instead of tightening the screws directly onto the painted surface of the flange, like Bomar did originally, I used stainless washers to protect the surface of the paint. I also used Tefgel on the screw threads and in every hole, and I used Sikaflex 291-LOT rather than conventional glazing. Hopefully, the modern materials and approach will keep this looking good at least until my Viking funeral several decades from now. 🙂
It was roasting hot during the summer when I installed the glass, too hot in the tent to work, so I cleaned the sealant up and went home by noon. I came back the next day to install the latch hardware.
I applied a generous dollop of Tefgel on the contact surfaces of the aluminum spacer, then installed the screw with more Tefgel.
Remember I mentioned how hot it was in the tent that day? If you look at the glass, you can see some spots where the Sikaflex oozed out after I’d cleaned the glass and gone home. Maybe there’s an air bubble nearby that expanded from the heat before the material cured. It’s a small thing, but I think it’ll catch dirt so I’ll razor that off next time I’m on the bow.
The aluminum bar for the latch prop has some surface imperfections, so I sanded it with 320 grit and left the surface looking brushed.
Next up in our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing New Glass in Portholes