In 2014, I refinished the original teak swim platform then let it sit in my shop at home while I recovered from the bastard thieves who stole all of the parts, tools, and materials from the tent that year. Installing the platform got delayed again in 2015 when the boat next to mine exploded and damaged my paint and and the tent. But if I’m going to splash in 2016, I’ve got to get the platform installed since many of the bolts that attach it to the boat are below the waterline.
I started out by cutting the old mahogany salon hatch frames into useful lengths, getting rid of all of the splits, cracks and other bad parts.
The board is 3″ wide, and I don’t want the blade to twist when I push the wood through. So I’m using a 1/2″ 3tpi blade.
It’s really unfortunate Chris Craft didn’t manufacture the swim platform brackets to fit the boat. The transom is very close to perpendicular to the waterline, so all they had to do was make the top of the brackets (where the platform attaches) 90° to the upright mounting point. Instead, they made them 82°, which is why I need the tapered spacers.
I fully saturated the mahogany with epoxy, including the inside of the bolt holes, then laid on a layer of medium weight fiberglass. When the epoxy started getting tacky, I hot coated it with homemade underwater fairing compound.
The spacers are mahogany, but they’re completely encapsulated in plastic, even inside the bolt holes. With no breaks in the epoxy, once I get a barrier coat on them water won’t be able to attack the wood inside. But before I can apply barrier coat, I need to get a gallon kit of Devoe Bar-Rust 235. The local supplier stopped carrying it, and I’ve been having trouble finding a distributor in the area. So I’ll put the swim platform on hold and get to work on something else.