With the Cummins engine mounts modified to fit my boat, the original engine beds cut off and new ones fabricated, and the engine bilges clean, next I need to mount the new engine beds, paint everything, and align the engine and gear to the propeller shaft.
I use the excess epoxy to smooth the stringers where I cut off the old engine beds. It makes a sticky mess, though…have to be careful where you touch.
With the clamps off, I moved the engine into position to mark and drill the vibration isolator holes.
After drilling the vibration isolator holes, I used my home-built gantry to lift and move the engine out of the way.
Note the epoxy coating covers the inside of the bolt holes as well as the exterior surfaces. I never, ever want to have to paint this bilge again. 🙂
I know…it’s probably overkill. But I really, really, really never want to have to do this again. Keeping corrosion from starting is much better than fixing corrosion problems after they’ve started.
I don’t think I’ve mentioned it before, but I’m using ceramic bubbles as an additive to the Devoe 235 Bar Rust epoxy I’m applying in the bilge spaces. Ceramic bubbles’ claim to fame is that it toughens coatings and also has insulating properties that lessen condensation. I don’t know if it actually works or not, but I bought a bag of the stuff back in 2009 when I first sandblasted and painted the bilges so I figure I might as well use it up here. One thing I know the ceramic does is make the epoxy absolutely resistant to flowing out smooth. You can’t roll and tip to get a smooth, glossy surface with this stuff. It’s kind of similar to very fine, roll-on non-skid.
It took less than 15 minutes to align the shaft and gear couplers to within 0.002″. Then I installed the Globe Drivesaver using the hardware I bought to replace the wrong-sized cap head bolts that Globe sends out with their kit. Lesson learned: Do Not Buy Globe Drivesavers. Still…I own ’em, so I might as well use ’em.
The short bolts on the right are the ones Globe supplied that don’t fit this application even though they claim it does. The 1/4″ longer bolts on the left are the ones this application requires.
Here’s another one of those Harbor Freight tools that’s worth the investment: the hydraulic port-a-power. It’s got a million and one uses, and I think I paid $75 for the kit on sale using a coupon.
I lost one of the T-bolt clamps for my stuffing box, but I suspect I’ll find it as I install more of the engine parts (e.g. strainers, exhaust, etc).
Getting the engines installed was a big priority for 2015 and I expected to have it done back in the summer. Unfortunately, when the boat next to mine blew up in July, it threw a wrench in my schedule. Even if that didn’t happen, Motion Windows messing up my helm window build would have kept me from splashing this year anyway. It’s always something.
Speaking of Motion Windows…
Next up on our 1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Motion Windows’ Response