I’m still working on getting the engines installed while the scorching hot summer passes by. Since I’ve never done a complete engine swap before, the learning curve here is pretty steep and my assumptions about many things have been wrong. Fortunately, once I work out the process with the first engine, the second one will be a snap by comparison. 🙂
Thickened epoxy has excellent compression characteristics, and its only purpose here is to level the spacer. In addition to being bonded with epoxy to the stringer top and side, I also bolted it through the side. The vibration isolators use 1/2″ bolts that will go all the way through the isolator, the spacer, the stringer, and a 3/8″ backing plate I’ll use on the underside of the stringer when I put it all together. The combination of the epoxy bond and heavy mechanical fasteners should keep everything together nicely and perfectly aligned.
The 3/4″ plywood scrap in the pic above has a strip of mold release tape attached to it so the epoxy won’t stick to it. The plywood is just wide enough to span the stringer top and land on the piece of 3/8″ aluminum angle that’s epoxy bonded and clamped to the stringer.
I’ll remove the bolts, sand, and paint this whole area white after I’m done test fitting the engine.
The DriverSavers permitt me to move the engine, vibration isolators, and spacers forward enough so the rear vibration isolator bolts will clear the transverse frame under the gear; a problem I described in my last article. That’s one expensive piece of rubber, but it will also lessen vibration and electrically isolate the shaft and prop from the rest of the boat. All told, it’s well worth the price.